An Icelander’s Path to AMGA Certification

Icelander Einar Ísfeld Steinarsson first started considering IFMGA certification in 2002. But at that time Iceland was not a member country of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association. However, as part of a mountain and para-rescue team, where he trained with the U.S. Marines in winter survival in the Icelandic interior, Greenland, and the United […]

Allen & Zimmerman Nominated Finalists for the Piolet dʼOr

Mark Allen Mt. Laurens

AMGA Guide Mark Allen and his partner Graham Zimmerman were recently chosen as finalists from among 76 nominations for the renowned Piolet dʼOr, the most prestigious award in climbing. The winning team will be chosen by March 29, so stay tuned. In the meantime, we sat down with Allen to talk about the ascent that […]

Continuing Education and the CAA Level 2

Angela-Hawse

Editors note: This article was originally printed in the Canadian Avalanche Journal and the The Avalanche Review. It is being reprinted with permission from Angela Hawse. By Angela Hawse, IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide Like winter, education is something I can’t get enough of.  It’s that obsessive, insatiable curiosity you’re familiar with.  Working as a full-time guide, […]

The View: watching guided clients’ awe when they summit

By John T. Young I always scramble ahead of my clients to get to The View before they do. Not because I need to see it first – I’ve seen it many times. What I want is to watch their face as they see Capitol Peak’s Knife Edge for their first time. I want to […]

Update: AMGA Titles for Training & Certification Levels Redefined

By Dale Remsberg While many regions in the United States have seen little precipitation, Colorado experienced one of its wettest falls and is now having one of its best winters in the last decade. We’re enjoying excellent midwinter ice and now finally some deep powder skiing! We’re also experiencing significant changes with the technical branch […]

Mark Kelly Publishes Ski Guidebook to the Rockies

Mark's Kelly's guidebook

AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guide Mark Kelly released his new ski guidebook, “Backcountry Skiing and Ski Mountaineering in Rocky Mountain National Park,” with Giterdun Publishing in November 2013. We recently caught up with Mark to chat about his book and learn more about his guiding life. AMGA: When & why did you start skiing? Mark Kelly: […]

Chris Wright receives Mugs Stump to climb the North Pillar of Teng Kangpoche

Chris Wright Mugs award

Congratulations Chris Wright for receiving the Mugs Stump Award to attempt the North Pillar of Teng Kangpoche (6,487m) in the Kumbu Himal, Nepal! We appreciate him letting us reprint part of his engaging Mugs Stump Award application on The Guiding Life blog. We can see he won not only for the cutting-edge nature of his […]

Guide Beta: Pins & Bolts

Illustrations by Tom Hargis With 43 years guiding in the world’s great ranges, Exum Senior Guide and IFMGA/AMGA-certified legend Tom Hargis is also the only American to summit Gasherbrum IV. The 2004 recipient of the AMGA Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award, Hargis here presents his expertise about fixed protection–how it works and how to evaluate […]