Alpine Guide Course

The Alpine Guide Course is the 2nd step in the alpine guide education and certification process and places strong emphasis on hands-on approach to the mechanics of guiding on alpine terrain. All candidates enrolled in the Alpine Guide Course must have first successfully completed the AMGA Rock Instructor Course.

Course Area:

The course area often includes but is not limited to non-glaciated, alpine terrain in the Rocky Mountains and the North Cascades.

Course Length:

The Alpine Guide Course is 10-days in length.

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Prerequisites for Alpine Guide Course:

• You are an Associate Member of the AMGA.
• You have successfully completed the Rock Instructor Course. Please provide documentation of course completion on program application.
• You have at least 5 years of alpine climbing experience.
• Provide personal alpine climbing showing each of the following:
  • You have led or shared lead on at least 40 different alpine climbs in at least 2 different areas (i.e. Cascades and Alaska).
  • 10 of which should be on alpine rock routes rated 5.8 or harder and grade III or longer after the approach.
  • 10 of which should be on different alpine technical snow, ice or mixed climbs.
  • 5 of which should be on different ice climbs rated WI4 or harder.
• You are confident with basic knots, including: figure-8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule hitch, prussik, klemheist, and double fisherman’s.
• You are able to place traditional protection and construct anchors
• You are able to employ Classic (French) crampon techniques on 40 degree hard, frozen, snow in ascent and descent.
• You are able to safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.6 in stiff mountaineering boots.
• You are able to safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10a in rock shoes.
• You are comfortable using the hip belay method.
• You are competent reading a map and using a compass.
• You are familiar with Leave No Trace practices and techniques
• You are able to use more than one type of device on multi-pitch rappels.
• Provide a copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification or better.

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Skills taught and developed during the Alpine Guide Course:

• Efficient travel through 3rd and 4th class terrain
• Short-rope and short-pitch techniques on snow and rock
• Techniques for managing multiple clients
• Track setting Navigation skills
• Macro and micro-route finding skills
• Evaluating anchor construction as it relates to guiding
• Choosing appropriate belay methods for rock and snow
• Efficiently organizing belay stances for multiple clients
• Descending with clients
• Escaping belays
• Managing client safety in 3rd and 4th class terrain
• Guide’s anchors in rock, snow and ice
• Time and pace management
• Small team rescues
• Improvised ascending methods
• Strategies for rappelling and lowering clients
• Safety management in guiding context
• Lesson plans
• Pedagogy
• Coaching tips and effective communication