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Prerequisites for Alpine Guide Course:

  1. You are a current Associate Member or higher of the AMGA.
  2. You have successfully completed the Rock Instructor Course. Please provide documentation of course completion on program application.
  3. You have at least five years of alpine climbing experience.
  4. Provide a personal alpine climbing resume showing each of the following:
    • That you have led or shared lead on at least 40 different alpine climbs in at least two different areas (i.e. Cascades and Alaska). 10 of which should be on alpine rock routes rated 5.8 or harder and grade III or longer after the approach. 10 of which should be on different alpine technical snow, ice or mixed climbs. 5 of which should be on different ice climbs rated WI4 or harder.
  5. You are confident with basic knots, including: figure-8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule hitch, prusik, klemheist, and double fisherman’s.
  6. You are able to place traditional protection and construct anchors.
  7. You are able to employ classic (French) crampon techniques on 40 degree hard, frozen snow in ascent and descent.
  8. You are able to safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.6 in stiff mountaineering boots.
  9. You are able to safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10a in rock shoes.
  10. You are comfortable using the hip belay method.
  11. You are competent reading a map and using a compass.
  12. You are familiar with Leave No Trace practices and techniques.
  13. You are able to use more than one type of device on multi-pitch rappels.
  14. Provide a copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification, Wilderness EMT, EMT or OEC.

Prerequisites for Rock Instructor Course:

  1. You are a current Associate Member or higher of the AMGA.
  2. You have at least 5 years of rock climbing experience.
  3. Provide a personal climbing resume showing each of the following:
    • That you have led or shared lead on at least 50 different multi-pitch traditional routes: 5 of which should be Grade III. 4 of which should be Grade IV or longer. 10 of which should be traditional routes rated 5.10a or harder on various rock types.
  4. You can safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10a at the time of the course.
  5. You are familiar with basic knots, including: figure-8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule-hitch, prusik, klemheist, and double fisherman’s.
  6. You are confident with placing traditional protection including: hexes, stoppers, tri-cams, and SLCDs.
  7. You are comfortable using mechanical (more than two types of belay devices including auto locking devices) and non-mechanical (hip belay) belay methods.
  8. You are familiar with the use of plate type devices on multi-pitch rappels.
  9. Provide copy of current basic first aid certification or better.
  10. You are at least 18 years of age.

Prerequisites for Ski Guide Course:

  1. You are a current Associate Member or higher of the AMGA.
  2. You have four years of personal ski touring experience, including leading multi-day tours and peak ascents.
  3. Provide a personal ski touring resume showing each of the following: 20 different ski tours from the past two years; detailed with date(s), specific location, total elevation gain and loss, total horizontal mileage, and maximum slope angle. 5 of which are on 40-degree terrain or steeper. 5 of which are day tours that include greater than or equal to 4500 vertical feet of ascent and 4500 vertical feet of descent. 5 of which are multi-day tours using huts or ski camping.
  4. You are able to ascend and descend on skis an average of 4500 vertical feet per day with little problem.
  5. You demonstrate expert skiing skills and can comfortably ski black and double-black diamond terrain at a level well beyond the average recreational skier.
  6. You must demonstrate the ability to adjust technique to ski in a variety of snow conditions on diverse terrain including long, sustained descents up to 50 degrees.
  7. You are experienced with general rope management skills including basic knots and climbing harnesses, choosing appropriate belay and rappel methods for rock and snow.
  8. You have experience snow climbing with ice axe and crampons and are comfortable with self-belay and self-arrest.
  9. You have basic tour planning skills.
  10. You are able to navigate in whiteout conditions.
  11. You are competent with transceiver use and rescue in multiple burial scenarios.
  12. You have completed an AMGA approved Level II avalanche course.
  13. Provide a copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification, Wilderness EMT or EMT.
  14. You are at least 18 years of age.
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