Rock Guide Exam (RGE)

The goals of the 6-day Rock Guide Certification Exam are to assess climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of the exam candidates.

During the exam candidates will be expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners. Candidates will serve as guides to the examiners and to the other candidates on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. Candidates acting as a guide will be responsible for: route planning, client orientation, risk management and normal guiding practices. Route or tour assignments will usually be given the night before. Client profiles will also be explained. Candidates will be responsible for obtaining information regarding the assigned route and alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.

Daily debriefs and critiques provide an opportunity for improving guiding skills. The longer routes (Grade IV and V) undertaken on the Rock Guide Certification Exam require proficiency with multi-client belaying techniques, strong application skill, efficient climbing and protective systems skills and quick and accurate transitions. A heavier emphasis is placed on expertise in short roping clients on longer routes than in the Rock Instructor Certification Exam. The final day of the exam will include personal debrief and exam evaluation.

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In order to receive AMGA certification as a Rock Guide you must:

• successfully complete the 10-day Rock Instructor Course
• successfully complete and pass the 10-day Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam
• Pass the 6-day Rock Guide Certification Exam

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Prerequisites for Rock Guide Certification Exam:

• You are a current Individual Member of the AMGA.
• You have successfully completed the Rock Guide Course, which requires that you have passed the Aspirant Exam. Please provide documentation of course completion on program application.
• Provide documentation of completed recommendations from Rock Guide Course evaluation.
• Provide an updated rock climbing resume showing each of the following:
• Since completing the Advanced Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam you mock guided/guided 20 days on multi-pitch traditional routes.
• 3 of which need to be at least grade IV or longer
• 7 of which need to be at least grade III or longer
• You can safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10+/A2 or harder at the time of the exam.
• You have current Wilderness First Responder certification or better.

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An AMGA Certified Rock Guide should be able to:

• On sight guide 2 clients at a 5.10b/c level up to and through grade V.
• Climb traditional and sport protected climbs at a 5.10+ level fluidly and comfortably.
• Demonstrate a proficient short roping and transitions techniques in technically demanding terrain.
• Demonstrate a working knowledge of industry standards in equipment
• Create and implement improvised rescue in vertical terrain.
• Use the right technique at the right time.
• Demonstrate proficient terrain assessment, potential hazard, risk management, and client care.
• Show a working knowledge of Leave No Trace Principles.

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