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AMGA

Rock Instructor Exam (RIE)

The Rock Instructor Exam is the 2nd step in the Rock Instructor Certification process. The Rock Instructor Exam certifies rock instructors that demonstrate a high level of expertise consistent with the standards introduced in the 10-day Rock Instructor Course. Basic short-roping skills must be demonstrated. The exam serves both to assess and educate. Daily debriefs and critiques provide an opportunity for improving guiding skills.

The first 5 days of the exam are conducted on routes chosen by the examiners. During the climbs participants serve as guides to the examiners and other participants and will encounter complex guiding and route-finding situations through grade III climbs. Participants are required to solve a specific rescue scenario at a scheduled time. Details are available from the office. In addition, impromptu rescue situations can occur at any time during the exam. Throughout the exam, particular focus is placed on client and guide security.

Rock Instructor Certification is designed for guides or aspiring guides who work on routes that are Grade III or shorter. While these routes are multi-pitch, they are relatively straightforward and may not involve complex approaches and/or descents. Time factors, while important, are not as pressing on these routes. During the Rock Instructor Certification Exam candidates will be examined on climbs through Grade III and up to 5.10a in difficulty.

In order to receive AMGA certification as a Rock Instructor you must:

  • successfully complete the 10-day Rock Instructor Course
  • Pass the 6-day Rock Instructor Exam.

Exam Area:

The Rock Instructor Exam examines guides in a broad range of skills essential to guiding in a variety of rock environments. Exam areas include but are not limited to: Joshua Tree, Lumpy Ridge, Looking Glass, Cathedral Ledge, and Eldorado Canyon.

Exam Length:

The Rock Instructor Exam is 6-days in length

Prerequisites for Rock Instructor Certification Exam:

  • You are a current Individual Member of the AMGA.
  • You have successfully completed the Rock Instructor Course. Please provide documentation of course completion on program application.
  • Provide documentation of completed recommendations from Rock Instructor Course evaluation.
  • Provide an updated rock climbing resume showing each of the following:
  • Since completing the Rock Instructor Course have led or shared lead on at least 7 routes Grade III.
  • Since completing the Rock Instructor Course you have led or shared lead on at least 3 routes Grade IV.
  • Since completing the Rock Instructor Course you have led 10 different traditional routes rated 5.10a or harder.
  • You can safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10a A0 or harder at the time of the exam.
  • You have current Wilderness First Responder certification or better.

An AMGA Certified Rock Instructor should be able to:

  • On sight guide 2 clients at a 5.10a level up to and through grade III
  • Climb traditional and sport protected climbs at a 5.10a level fluidly and comfortably.
  • Demonstrate a good knowledge of industry standard equipment.
  • Create and implement improvised rescue in vertical terrain.
  • Demonstrate a working knowledge of short-roping.
  • Demonstrate proficiency of terrain assessment, potential hazards, risk management and client care.
  • Show an understanding and practice of Leave No Trace.