Patagonia’s Nano-Air Hoody: The Leave It On Jacket

Our trusty gear tester and newly pinned American Mountain Guide/IFMGA Guide, Rob Coppolillo, recently submitted this review on Patagonia’s Nano-Air™ Hoody, which he tested over a few weeks in Boulder, Colorado, while guiding, climbing, cycling, chasing kids, teaching a self-rescue course, and just “during the madness of everyday life.”

AMGA: What makes this piece ideal for skiing/climbing/ice climbing guiding?
Rob Coppolillo: “Leaving it on” saves time/hassle by not having to shed/change layers depending on exertion/activity/time of day. It’s a nice goal in a garment, and Patagonia’s Nano-Air comes pretty close to getting it done.

AMGA: In what ways was it durable?
RC: I didn’t hammer the thing too hard, but it seems sufficiently durable after I packed/unpacked it numerous times and scuffed around some Boulder Canyon granite in it. The face fabric feels burly enough; it should last rock climbing, though the stretch around ice screws and what not might worry me. It seems like the material could catch, snag, and/or tear pretty easily on sharp stuff like screws and what not.

AMGA: In what ways was it functional?
RC: It was comfortable, for sure. The stretch is fantastic, even tucked into a harness. The over the head motion is great; there is zero restriction of movement. It breathes way better than the Polartec “Alpha” stuff, which markets itself as a “leave it on” type insulation. I’d prefer the pockets to be higher (above the harness line) and larger, so they could be used to vent the jacket—that would expand its temperature range even further! The high collar is good. I definitely recommend getting the hoody.

I feel like a vest model might be the best piece of all. I tend to run hot, honestly, I doubt I could Nordic ski or ski tour in the AirNano unless it was very, very cold. A vest, though, would be awesome core warmth/wind resistance, while leaving the arms to breathe. I thought the jacket was comfortable, remarkably breathable, and the DWR seemed good in the one 20-minute sprinkle I endured. It’s a good piece.

AMGA: How does the piece compare to other, similar pieces that you have used?
RC: It’s way more breathable and comfortable than similar pieces I have used made by other brands, as they are often too much like traditional puffy jackets. I’d prefer the hoody over the jacket, hands down. It’s one of the more comfortable jackets I’ve worn. I’m not sure which category to put it in, as it’s not really a soft shell. It seems like it would be a great alpine piece in more moderate weather, though I’m not sure it’ll replace my usual set-up—an R1 hoody or R5 zip sweater with a soft-shell over it.