Review: CAMP’s XLC Nanotech Automatic Crampon

Mike Soucy, American Mountain Guide/IFMGA Guide, recently reviewed CAMP USA’s XLC Nanotech Automatic Crampon

I used CAMP’s XLC Nanotech Automatic Crampon for two days of ski mountaineering in Rocky Mountain National Park. These crampons are intended to be used for ski mountaineering and climbing snow/moderate ice, where rock will not be encountered.

nano1The XLC Nanotech is great for guiding due to its light weight, packability, and simplicity in design. They hold up as well, if not a bit better than the average aluminum crampons. The addition of Sandvik Nanoflex® steel reinforcements on the front points of these crampons gave me a noticeable advantage when I was climbing water ice, but it did not improve the durability otherwise. I appreciated the CC4u wear indicators on the side points that show the user when it is time for replacement.

These automatic crampons are easily adjustable and fit two different pair of my AT boots, as well as my mountaineering boots securely. Adjustments are made via a simple screw on the spacer bar. Although this is a simple and secure method, I’d recommend keeping some blue Locktite on the threads.

Overall, I think the XLC Nanotech crampons work quite well. One notable issue I noticed with the design is that the secondary points seem to be oriented too far forward. With most mountaineering crampons, secondary points are oriented at about 45-60 degrees down from the frontpoints; aiding traction on less than vertical snow and ice. These secondary points are closer to 30 degrees, presumably to function with the lengthy (reinforced) front points. This led to some noticeable shearing of the crampon’s front section on steep snow.

My only other concern is with the buckles on the instep strap. They have fixed side release buckles (same type as a backpack waist belt) that are historically prone to breaking and tricky to replace. Due to this design, I would also avoid using them for any expedition-type climbing, where having replaceable hardware is a must.

The bottom line is the functionality of CAMP’s XLC Nanotech Automatic crampon is exceptional because of the light weight and packability. I believe durability is on par with other aluminum crampons out there, but keep them away from the rocks!

However, I will not use them regularly; mostly due to the above-mentioned orientation of the secondary points. I do not feel the confidence with each step that I require while guiding or personally climbing in exposed terrain.

Specs:

  • Sandvik Nanoflex® stainless steel reinforcements on the front points
  • 3-D pressed frame maximizes strength and performance
  • Automatic bindings fit most technical mountaineering and telemark boots
  • CC4u wear indicators on the side points show when it is time for replacement
  • Optional Vibram® anti-balling plates (18106 – sold separately)
  • Weight: 598 grams