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amga1979

“Now that I have this first rock guide course un “Now that I have this first rock guide course under my belt, and I have had the opportunity to network with other strong ladies in the guide world, I feel more confident that I can continue on in the AMGA Mountain Guide program with success and a sense of belonging.”
-Affinity Program Participant

For the fifth year, our partner @thenorthface is sponsoring a Women's Rock Guide Course– a professional rock guide training course specifically for women students and taught by women of the AMGA Instructor Team. If you identify with this opportunity please apply at the link in our bio. 👈
Applications close March 31st.

⭐️Women’s Rock Guide Course w/ @thenorthface in Red Rocks, NV, Dates TBD (early Oct)

📸 @yellowtentnomads 

#thenorthface #amga1979 #isyourguidetrained #affinityspaces
“​​I have been fortunate enough to participa “​​I have been fortunate enough to participate in both an SPI affinity course and exam and I can honestly say that it has been some of the major highlights of my past year. The atmosphere of support and camaraderie I have felt in these spaces is not something I think I would have felt going into a typical assessment.”
-Affinity Program Participant

We're very excited to share our three @blackdiamond sponsored Black, Indigenous, and People of Color Affinity Programs this year including our first ever BIPOC Rock Guide Course. 
Check them out and if you identify with this opportunity please apply at the link in our bio. 👈
Applications close March 31st.

⭐️BIPOC Single Pitch Instructor Assessment w/ @blackdiamond in North Conway, NH, Sept 13-14, 2023
⭐️BIPOC Single Pitch Instructor Course w/ @blackdiamond in North Conway, NH, Sept 15-17, 2023
⭐️BIPOC Rock Guide Course w/ @blackdiamond in Boulder, CO, Sept 23-30, 2023

📸 @trucallen , @ruggedseasons , Michael Drake

#blackdiamondequipment #amga1979 #isyourguidetrained #affinityspaces
“It’s of the utmost importance that these spac “It’s of the utmost importance that these spaces exist, and that they continue to not only exist and become increasingly accessible, but that the greater climbing community continues to evolve and question and adapt as our climbing climate shifts with time”
 -Affinity Program Participant

Our partner @arcteryx is sponsoring two Women's SPI Affinity Programs this year, both in Red Rock Canyon, NV! If you identify with this opportunity please apply at the link in our bio. 👈 
Applications close March 31st.

⭐️Women’s Single Pitch Instructor Assessment w/ @arcteryx in Red Rocks, NV, Nov 9-10, 2023
⭐️Women’s Single Pitch Instructor Course w/ @arcteryx in Red Rocks, NV, Nov 11-13, 2023

📸 @ladylockoff & Judy Su & Elizabeth Fricke

#arcteryx #amga1979 #isyourguidetrained #affinityspaces
Through continued support from community and partn Through continued support from community and partners, we are excited to share our eight Affinity Programs of 2023. These Affinity Programs offer a supportive environment for participants to learn and engage. If you or someone you know identifies with this opportunity please apply and spread the word!

👉 link in bio

⭐️LGBTQIA2S+ Single Pitch Instructor Assessment w/ @mountainhardwear in Red Rocks, NV, May 5-6, 2023
⭐️ LGBTQIA2S+ Single Pitch Instructor Course w/ @mountainhardwear in Red Rocks, NV, May 8-10, 2023
⭐️BIPOC Single Pitch Instructor Assessment w/ @blackdiamond in North Conway, NH, Sept 13-14, 2023
⭐️BIPOC Single Pitch Instructor Course w/ @blackdiamond in North Conway, NH, Sept 15-17, 2023
⭐️BIPOC Rock Guide Course w/ @blackdiamond in Boulder, CO, Sept 23-30, 2023
⭐️Women’s Rock Guide Course w/ @thenorthface in Red Rocks, NV, Dates TBD (early Oct)
⭐️Women’s Single Pitch Instructor Assessment w/ @arcteryx in Red Rocks, NV, Nov 9-10, 2023
⭐️Women’s Single Pitch Instructor Course w/ @arcteryx in Red Rocks, NV, Nov 11-13, 2023

#amga1979 #isyourguidetrained #affinityspacesmatter
Part 2: This is a follow-up to last week's tip. 🧊 This video shows a steel screw being rebored into an aluminum hole. Notice how much it rattles? This would not hold a fall and must be avoided! 🧗‍♀️ 

Reminder: Screws can vary in diameter even if made from the same material. Use your best judgment when reboring holes and ensure a strong 💪  placement.
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#amga1979 #techtuesday #amgatechtuesday #poweredbyblackdiamond #liveclimbrepeat #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifiedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained #iceclimbing
Ever been out exploring and weren't sure if you we Ever been out exploring and weren't sure if you were on someone's private land?🤔 @onxbackcountry recently launched their private land layer so you can be confident where you're recreating. Interested in gaining access to a specific area- click on a parcel to see contact information. 📪 #MappingMonday

(available for Elite onX Memberships)
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#onxbackcountry #exploreandrestore #mappingmonday #amga1979 #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained
🌟 Reminder 🌟 When the ice becomes swiss-che 🌟 Reminder 🌟  When the ice becomes swiss-cheese-like 🧀 (see second pic), reboring old placements is an option. However, beware that not all screws are created equal. Most aluminum screws have larger diameters than their steel counterparts. Thus, an aluminum screw can go into a steel hole, but not vice versa. 

A rebore is weaker than a freshly placed screw, but sometimes it might be your only option. If using this technique, make sure that there is resistance as the screw goes in and try to use a longer screw to tap into fresh ice. 

Check back next week for part ll of this #amgatechtip 
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#amga1979 #techtuesday #amgatechtuesday #poweredbyblackdiamond #liveclimbrepeat #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifiedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained #iceclimbing
This #MappingMonday with @onxbackcountry we're loo This #MappingMonday with @onxbackcountry we're looking at avalanche forecasts.🌨️ The onX backcountry app features condensed information about local weather forecasting including avalanche forecasting. 👉 But, make sure to also check out that region's avalanche center website for even more information about the area in order to best plan for your tour.

1️⃣ Turn on the Avalanche Forecast Layer
2️⃣ Select the region you're heading to
3️⃣ Click on the Avalanche Forecast link

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#onxbackcountry #exploreandrestore #mappingmonday #amga1979 #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained
📣 Updates to programs in caption 📣 🌟Affi 📣 Updates to programs in caption 📣 
🌟Affinity Program application period opens in two weeks!🌟
Through continued support from community and partners, we are excited to share our eight Affinity Programs of 2023. These Affinity Programs offer a supportive environment for participants to learn and engage more comfortably. 
👉 See link in our bio for more information including previous essay questions.

Application period opens March 15th and closes March 31st.

⭐️LGBTQIA2S+ Single Pitch Instructor Assessment w/ @mountainhardwear in Red Rocks, NV, May 5-6, 2023
⭐️ LGBTQIA2S+ Single Pitch Instructor Course w/ @mountainhardwear in Red Rocks, NV, May 8-10, 2023
⭐️BIPOC Single Pitch Instructor Assessment w/ @blackdiamond in North Conway, NH, Sept 13-14, 2023
⭐️BIPOC Single Pitch Instructor Course w/ @blackdiamond in North Conway, NH, Sept 15-17, 2023
⭐️BIPOC Rock Guide Course w/ @blackdiamond in Boulder, CO, Sept 23-30, 2023
⭐️Women’s Rock Guide Course w/ @thenorthface in Red Rocks, NV, Dates TBD (early Oct)
⭐️Women’s Single Pitch Instructor Assessment w/ @arcteryx in Red Rocks, NV, Nov 9-10, 2023
⭐️Women’s Single Pitch Instructor Course w/ @arcteryx in Red Rocks, NV, Nov 11-13, 2023

#amga1979 #isyourguidetrained #affinityspacesmatter
Ice fracturing is a genuine concern in cold enviro Ice fracturing is a genuine concern in cold environments 🥶 When building anchors, keep a minimum of 30 cm (12 in) between ice screws. This minimizes the potential for fractures to propagate. When in doubt, go farther apart and place more ice screws to increase anchor security. 

What are some other considerations when building 🧊ice anchors?
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#amga1979 #techtuesday #amgatechtuesday #poweredbyblackdiamond #liveclimbrepeat #guideslife #rockclimbing #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifiedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained #iceclimbing
This #MappingMonday we're looking at backcountry s This #MappingMonday we're looking at backcountry ski routes⛷️ In the @onxbackcountry app you can see various already established approaches and descents using your filters.

1️⃣ Make sure you're in Snow mode
2️⃣ Select the Activity Type you are looking for
3️⃣ Click on the route to see a description, photos, and route specifications.

Bonus Tip - Save your route offline with the click of a button.
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#onxbackcountry #exploreandrestore #mappingmonday #amga1979 #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained
This one is a no-brainer... get it...🧠? Make su This one is a no-brainer... get it...🧠? Make sure your helmet fits snugly and low across your forehead (protecting your frontal lobe). As we continue through this winter season and have extra layers under our helmets, it's essential to ensure they still have a secure fit. Even with a beanie on underneath, your helmet should fit tight enough that as you move your head around, it remains in place. 🧗

👉 Bonus points for checking your climbing partner's helmet too. 
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#amga1979 #techtuesday #amgatechtuesday #poweredbyblackdiamond #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifiedinstruction #isyourguidetrained
In this week’s #MappingMonday, we want to cover In this week’s #MappingMonday, we want to cover the various Basemaps @onxbackcountry provides.
🗺️Here are the three types of maps and their benefits:

Topo: Also known as topographic, these maps give you a three-dimensional perspective of the landscape by featuring contour lines.
▪️Great for figuring out your current elevation compared to where you want to go.

Satellite: these maps give you a bird's-eye view of the terrain.
▪️Great for identifying natural features you want to move towards or from (e.g. treeline or crevasses).

Hybrid: these maps are a combination of the Topo and Satellite maps.
▪️Great for seeing universal view of the land helping you make more informed decisions in the field.

👉Make sure to sync and download your offline maps to your phone before your trip.
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#onxbackcountry #exploreandrestore #mappingmonday #amga1979 #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained
Proper technique when applying climbing skins stav Proper technique when applying climbing skins staves off frustration and lengthens the life of your skins! Follow these steps:
 
▪️ Make sure the bases of your skis are clear of snow, 🧊ice, wax etc. 

▪️ Attach the tip-connector and line up your skin with the ski. 
👉 Take care when attaching the first 6 inches of the skin.👈

▪️ Pull the rest of the skin from this 6-inch interface versus pulling from the tip connector (a weak point). 

▪️ Pull and place the remainder of the skin onto your ski. ✨Check that your ski edges are showing and that you have a solid connection between the ski and skin.✨

▪️ Smooth away any creases, gaps or bumps on your skins by applying firm pressure along the skin from tip to tail.

⛷️ Happy Climbing!
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#amga1979 #techtuesday #amgatechtuesday #poweredbyblackdiamond #liveclimbrepeat #guideslife #rockclimbing #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifiedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained
This #MappingMonday we're stating the obvious.. If This #MappingMonday we're stating the obvious.. If you're going to be using your mapping app in the backcountry make sure to protect your battery from the cold. Store it in a warm pocket that is at least 30cm AWAY from your transceiver in send mode to avoid any interference.📡

Here are two possible configurations:

1️⃣ Pocketing the beacon and using a chest pocket for your phone. 
▪️Pros: phone stays warmer and easier access. 
▪️Cons: The transceiver is exposed to potentially more trauma in case of being caught in a slide. Additionally some transceiver manufacturers do not recommend a pocket carry. 
👉Always read your beacon's owners manual.

2️⃣ Using the transceiver harness and storing your phone in the opposite pant pocket. 
▪️Pros: This provides greater protection for your transceiver.
▪️Cons: It can be a colder and more cumbersome storage spot for your phone.

🤔How do you keep separation from your phone and your transceiver?

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#onxbackcountry #exploreandrestore #mappingmonday #amga1979 #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained
The 'Quick Carry' is perfect for fast transitions The 'Quick Carry' is perfect for fast transitions from ski to walk and short sections which require the mobility of boots on the ground. Follow these steps: 

1️⃣ Start with one slightly loose shoulder strap and slide skis horizontally tail first. 
2️⃣ Slide to toe piece of binding and keep skis in front of your arm.
3️⃣ In one motion, tuck your head under and rotate the skis behind ✨Pro Tip- Keep your jacket hood on to prevent tangles!
4️⃣ Adjust for comfort, connect sternum strap.

That's it! Reverse steps to remove. 
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#amga1979 #techtuesday #amgatechtuesday #poweredbyblackdiamond #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifiedinstruction #isyourguidetrained
It's Monday so you know what that means... #Mappin It's Monday so you know what that means... #MappingMonday with @onxbackcountry ! This week we're building on our topic last week and talking about Slope Angle Shading. ⛷️

This is a powerful tool to visualize slope and potential avalanche danger when heading out in the field. 👀 By understanding the legend on your map as well as the terrain around, above, and below you, you can better assess safety in the backcountry. This tool is not a supplement for field verification - always complete your own terrain assessment.

✨Remember to save offline maps for use in the field!

For more technical info on how onX Backcountry calculates slope angle, read the blog link in our bio 👈
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#onxbackcountry #exploreandrestore #mappingmonday #amga1979 #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained
"The AMGA Alpine Guide Exam was the culmination of "The AMGA Alpine Guide Exam was the culmination of a seven-year journey in my professional development as a guide. I am grateful to Patagonia for sponsoring my scholarship and enabling me to complete my certification as an Alpine Guide. In many ways, although I have been guiding in the alpine discipline for over 12 years, this certification represents the beginning, rather than the end of my career, in that it has allowed me to look at decision-making and problem-solving in the alpine with more nuance and perspective than before." -Japhy Dhungana, 2022 Patagonia Scholarship Recipient

📸 @japhydhungana 

Read more (including Japhy's advice for those taking the Alpine Exam) at the link in our bio. 👈
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#amga1979 #guideslife #alpineclimbing #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifiedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained #scholarships
Whether you're transitioning or just starting your Whether you're transitioning or just starting your tour make sure to test your toe bail. 🥾

▪️Step into your binding and wiggle left to right to ensure proper pin placement.
▪️Then slide your ski front and back to clear any snow or ice from the tech toe fitting.
▪️Stomp heal or lock your toe and off you go! ⛷️

*Don't use a ski pole or other sharp object to clear the tech toe fitting - you can scratch the material and cause future build-up. 🎿
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#amga1979 #techtuesday #amgatechtuesday #poweredbyblackdiamond #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifiedinstruction #isyourguidetrained
In this week’s #MappingMonday, a collaborative s In this week’s #MappingMonday, a collaborative series with @onxbackcountry, let's talk about preparedness via the use of offline maps. 🗺️

In the backcountry we often find ourselves in spots with zero cell service.📱 It's important to make sure you have maps that you can access offline.

On onX Backcountry you can explore and save maps on your desktop 🖥️ and then use them on your phone out in the field. 

👉 Make sure to sync and download your offline maps to your phone before your trip.
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#onxbackcountry #exploreandrestore #mappingmonday #amga1979 #guideslife #neverstoplearning #passiontoprofession #seekqualifedinstruction #climbinglife #isyourguidetrained
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Paul Koubek

paul-koubek

Lives:
Yosemite, CA & Seattle, WA

Works:
Alpine Ascents International

AMGA Training Level
• Certified IFMGA Guide

What are your top 2 favorite places to climb?
Yosemite & North Cascades

Who is your climbing hero and why?
Ron Kauk – my neighbor in El Portal. His first free first ascent of the east Face of Washington Column (resulting in what we now call the Astroman) is cool enough, but I’m even more impressed by his social activism, helping under- privileged youth experience the healing ceremony of nature through the no-profit “Sacred Rok”

What are your top 2 favorite places to ski?
Learning to ski ice in the hills of Maine may have permanently warped my perspective – but I’m happy skiing anywhere in the American West that there is snow.

Who is your ski hero and why?
My wife, who ski tours big days with heavy loads for science in the Yosemite high country

What’s one little known fact about you?
Former Fulbright Scholar

Personal Bio:
I am a “lifer” – I have been guiding or working in outdoor education since 1996. I draw great inspiration from senior guides who have dedicated their lives to perfection of our craft. I take pleasure in repeating classic routes in good style, and introducing those routes to my clients. I have guided and worked on the Programatic side of the guiding business for multiple companies (NOLS, the U.S. Antarctic Program, and Alpine Ascents International). I choose to guide in part because I love the people who are drawn to the work and to life in the outdoors. I appreciate diversity and believe that “all the freaky people make the beauty of the world.”

Most memorable guiding/instructing moment:
Crossing the Campo de Hielo Norte (Northern Ice Field) in Patagonia – from the Steffen Glacier to the Colonia Glacier – with a NOLS course. We pushed a new (to NOLS) route with little prior information available to us, nailed a weather window, and perhaps most informative to me – as a person who works as a supervisor – I received little recognition for the high quality of the expedition, other than from my students, who know well what an amazing expedition they had been a part of.

Paul’s Social Channels:

Website | Instagram

Abby Rowe

abby-trad-lead

Lives:
Mount Desert, ME

Works:
Acadia Mountain Guides

AMGA Training Level
• Certified Single Pitch Instructors

What are your top 2 favorite places to climb?
The Gunks & Joshua Tree

Who is your climbing hero and why?
Emilie Drinkwater. I have had the good fortune to spend a few days with Emilie in the mountains in the Adirondacks. I appreciate and admire her respect for the mountains and the understated manner in which she climbs, skis, and explores amazing places.

What are your top 2 favorite places to ski?
Anywhere I can ski and see the ocean, like the Chic Chocs or Acadia.

Who is your skiing hero and why?
Erika Linnell – nordic ski instructor and NOLS instructor who lives in Victor, Idaho. She can shred on classic, skate and tele with grace!

What’s one little known fact about you?
I’m a twin!

Personal Bio:
Abby began her career as an outdoor educator as an undergraduate in 1994. She has taught for Cornell Outdoor Education, Hurricane Island Outward Bound, College of the Atlantic, and served as the director of Colgate University’s Outdoor Education program. Abby is co-chair of the Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion Committee for the Association of Outdoor Recreation and Education and is passionate about reducing barriers for outdoor engagement for diverse populations. Abby can happily be found on rock, skis, in a variety of boats or hiking the local trails and carriage roads in Acadia National Park with her dog and partner.

Most memorable guiding/instructing moment:
I assisted on a group trip to Red rocks early in my climbing career. It was amazing to see the group’s awe for the landscape and their fast progression as sport climbers!

Abby’s Social Channels:

Website

Alyssa Countway

fullsizerender

Lives:
Boulder, CO

Works:
Women’s Wilderness & Boulder Rock Club

AMGA Training Level
• Certified Single Pitch Instructor

What are your top 2 favorite places to climb?
Eldorado Canyon & Vedauwoo

Who is your climbing hero and why?
The man who taught me to climb, EVD. He provided the resources to help me get on the rock and take me outside. He had an unreal amount of patience and time, allowing me to learn the basics of both technique and safety.

What’s one little known fact about you?
I have a toe thumb

Personal Bio:
I am a Colorado Native, I grew up in South Denver hiking, camping and playing outside! I attended CU Boulder, while there I dove deeper into outdoor recreation and learned how to climb through a mentor. As I devoted more time to this new obsession, climbing quickly gained traction and became a focal point in my life. I currently work at the Boulder Rock Club and instruct for Women’s Wilderness where I am able to teach technical skills and take groups out climbing. I enjoy cooking, traveling and spending time with family and friends. I love my community, dancing, sunshine and cows!

Most memorable guiding/instructing moment:
My most memorable experience was working with a group of extremely diverse high school girls in Vedauwoo WY. Most likely these girls would never cross paths in their lives, however for a week they shared tents and trusted each other, sharing a rope. They learned where their mental and physical limits are and just how to start pushing them. They endured and embraced the discomfort of pounding rain, ridiculously sharp granite and living with strangers. By the end of the week the girls discovered the magic of hand jams, connection with the natural world, and how we can use just that to unlock the possibilities inside us!

Alyssa’s Social Channels:

Instagram

Shane Robinson

shane_18399

Lives:
Seattle, WA

Works:
Pro Guiding Service

AMGA Training Level
• Certified Ski Guide
• Apprentice Alpine Guide

What are your top 2 favorite places to climb?
Washington Pass and Rocky Mountain National Park

Who is your climbing hero and why?
Anya Miller. Mostly because she’s my friend, but also because she’s really good.

What are your top 2 favorite places to ski?
Canada & The Cascades

Who is your skiing hero and why?
Chris Davenport. Keeps evolving and challenging himself throughout his career.

What’s one little known fact about you?
My hometown is home of the world’s first rodeo.

Personal Bio:
Originally from Colorado, Shane has lived in Seattle since 2002 where he loves exploring both the Cascades and the big city. Prior to moving to the Northwest, Shane worked as a ski patroller at Squaw Valley in Tahoe, CA and Copper Mountain in Summit County, CO. Shane simply loves skiing, and when he is not ski guiding, he is likely skiing with his wife and dog, or sneaking a trip up to Canada for more skiing. When the snow melts you can find him whitewater kayaking, looking for a good swimming hole, or counting down the days until the next snowfall.

Most memorable guiding/instructing moment:
A couple who are both resident doctors had been working really hard, and wanted a big day in the mountains. The conditions were perfect with full sun and great snow, and they were excited to just move. We were able to go for a big tour covering a lot of terrain, and by the end of the day they were just so giddy about our day in the mountains. It was a tour I’d done many times, but never with people so excited about the entire trip, and they changed the way I think about the tour and how excited people can be to just have a perfect day in the mountains.

Shane’s Social Channels:

Instagram

Alejandra Garces Pozo

img_7317

Lives:
Bellingham, WA

Works:
The American Alpine Institute

AMGA Training Level
• Certified Single Pitch Instructor

What are your top 2 favorite places to climb?
Vedauwoo & Eldorado Canyon

Who is your climbing hero and why?
Keiko Tanaka- because as a mentor and friend she has shown me that if you apply yourself seriously, you can continuously heighten your climbing limits in a safe and smart way. She has helped me take ego out of a sport that as a minority member in this community can be difficult at times to grapple with and helped me to focus on what I want to accomplish and nothing else. Above all, she inspires and pushes me to succeed with support and carefully thought out instruction in the many facets of climbing that she excels at.

What’s one little known fact about you?
At almost any point of any day, I am craving ice cream.

Personal Bio:
Alejandra is a first generation American, daughter of Ruby Pozo and Oswaldo Garcés, and sister of Adibe and Ozy Garces. As children, they grew up listening to the stories of their parents’ travels, mountaineering adventures, and expeditions in the Andes. Alejandra quickly fell in love with adventure travel, climbing, and her family’s Ecuadorian culture and history. In college her passion for these pursuits grew and upon completing her Bachelors in Inca History, she moved to the Colorado Rockies to pursue those dreams of climbing and eventually, guiding. Alejandra recently moved to the Pacific Northwest to work for the American Alpine Institute. She is very excited to start taking steps towards her goals to learn, develop, and grow as a mountaineer and live up to the dreams her parents share with her.

Most memorable guiding/instructing moment:
My most memorable moment when instructing rock climbing was when I was able to take my brother, Ozy, climbing in Boulder, CO last year. Sharing the information and knowledge that I have learned and experienced about rock climbing, and getting my big brother safely to the top of our first climb together was truly a special and cherished moment in my life. Similarly, taking my sister, Adibe, cragging and watching her push her limits and succeed in climbing, something she has never held much interest in, was an incredible thing to watch and a true honor to be a part of.

Alejandra’s Social Channels:

Instagram

Ted Teegarden

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Lives:
Bethlehem, NH

Works:
The White Mountain School, Atlantic Climbing School

AMGA Training Level
• Certified Rock Instructor
• Apprentice Alpine Guide
• SPI Provider

What are your top 2 favorite places to climb?
Joshua Tree and the High Sierra

Who is your climbing hero and why?
Tommy Caldwell. I have tried to continually learn new skills and venture into different avenues of climbing from bouldering and sport climbing to alpine climbing and beyond. Tommy has pushed what it means to good at all mediums of climbing and his dedication to his breadth of skill is inspiring. He also seems like a genuine and honest human and that’s important to me.

What are your top 2 favorite places to ski?
Iceland and the Sawtooths in Idaho

Who is your ski hero and why?
I look up to my buddy Chris (IFMGA Guide) for his skiing skills and for his stoke. His passion for the sport is contagious.

What’s one little known fact about you?
I have sick roller skating skills.

Personal Bio:
After traveling the US working outdoor education gigs, Ted earned his B.A. in Wilderness Leadership at Prescott College. It was there that the diverse geographic region of the Colorado Plateau and western ranges delivered opportunities to build a lasting connection to the mountains. Ted uses this experience coupled with a M.Ed. in Educational Leadership as the foundation for cultivating new climbers as the Director of Outdoor Education at The White Mountain School in New Hampshire, an AMGA Accredited Business.

Most memorable guiding/instructing moment:
I was guiding three of my advanced students up the Eaglet in NH. Upon reaching the summit, classic spring Northeast conditions hit with wind and sideways rain. The group remained super psyched, laughing and having a blast.

I sent one student down the rappel first with saddle bagged ropes and a huge grin. Lucy disappeared into the fog and that was that. I had worked with this group all fall as they developed into competent climbers. It was a perfect moment in recognition and reflection of the reality that they were ready to climb independently and seek their own adventures.

Ted’s Social Channels:

Instagram

Donny Roth

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Lives:
Gunnison, CO

Works:
Independent Descents

AMGA Training Level
• Certified Ski Guide

What are your top 2 favorite places to ski?
Chile & Iceland

Who is your skiing hero and why?
I look up to Hillaree O’Neil as a skier. She’s humble, skilled and badass. Most importantly, she’s still alive. Athletically, I really draw my inspiration from the true watermen of surfing. These guys know their environment like the fish and are extremely versatile in the way the move through it. Culturally, Anthony Bourdain’s curiousity about the world and non-pretentious way of approaching it is admirable.

What’s one little known fact about you?
I can cook.

Personal Bio:
I guide human-powered skiing, exclusively, all-year round, which adds up to about 125-days on snow (or half-a-million vertical feet) annually. I own a guide service in Chile – Chile Powder Adventures. I live in southwest Colorado but am only home about a quarter of the year – otherwise I am in Chile, Canada, Asia or Iceland. I am a frequent contributor to Backcountry Magazine. I filmed with Sweetgrass Productions for four-years, appearing in Solitaire and Valhalla. I am an ambassador for DPS Skis, Skratch Labs, Zeal Optics, Dynafit and the Winter Wildlands Alliance. I was a ski instructor and race coach before becoming a guide. I speak (Chilean) Spanish fluently. My hobbies include photography and cooking. I love mountain biking.

Most memorable guiding/instructing moment:
Sitting on a chairlift with a co-worker and a guest I did not know, I stated that I was a ski instructor. My co-worker, Doug Lunberg, who is older, but had fewer certifications / accolades to his credit, stated, “Donny, you may be a ski instructor; but I am a people instructor.” He didn’t mean this as a slight and I didn’t take it that way. We share our love for the mountains with people. It is our guest who should be the center of our attention.

Donny’s Social Channels:

Website | Instagram

Joe Vitti

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Lives:
High Falls, NY

Works:
Vitti Mountain Guides

AMGA Training Level
• Certified Rock Guide
• SPI Provider

What are your top 2 favorite places to climb?
The Gunks, Red Rocks

Who is your climbing hero and why?
I’ve got tons of heroes. Our sport is so diverse and has such a lively history. I have always admired Charlie Porter, he put his stamp on climbing in such a powerful way and at a time when things were still wide open. Alan Watts tore into sport climbing during the eighties and early nineties in a way that was so relentless and new, he pretty much single handedly put Smith on the map. It’s hard to have started climbing when I did and not be in awe of John Bachar’s climbing, he shattered the mind barriers that led to things that Michael Reardon, Dean Potter, Alex Honnold, Will Stanhope and tons of other people have gotten in to. Lynn Hill for her grace and power and totally shattering lame preconceptions about women and climbing. Peter Croft, Rolando Garribotti, Jerzy Kukuczka, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Mugs Stump, Herb and Jan Conn…. How about Rich Romano here in the Gunks? He put up a dozen or more climbs at Millbrook that are every bit as hard, daring and beautiful as Krystal Klear, Bachar Yearian and Perilous Journey that nobody even knows about. I saw Rich the other day at like six in the morning walking up the road to the cliff with his pack on, a rope over each shoulder bandolier style, stuffing a giant garbage bag with trash he was picking up from the side of the road. That dude rocks!

What are your top 2 favorite places to ski?
Jackson Hole, Berthoud Pass

Who is your ski hero and why?
My old friend Matt because teaching skiing is the only job he’s ever had, he’s a total lifer and though he’s a big dude on skis he’s Fred Astaire.

What’s one little known fact about you?
I spent about ten years working for a business turn around firm in Boulder, CO. Sometimes I wore a tie. Right around the time I realized I had to get out of there I had a corner office on the eighth floor of a building at Interlocken in Broomfield. I could see the summit of Longs Peak, the Indian Peaks and all the way south to Pike’s from my window; so close yet so very far away!

Personal Bio:
My wife and I met at the Stage Stop Saloon in Rollinsville, CO. These days we live in the Shawangunks with our daughter, son, cat, dog and twenty chickens. I started climbing when I was a teenager and it’s been at center of my life for over thirty years. I worked for a guide service for ten years before starting my own service in January of 2016. I guide rock and ice climbs in the northeastern US, especially here in the Gunks, as well as early spring and late fall trips to Red Rocks and occasional visits to the Colorado Front Range where I lived from 1994-2003. In addition to guiding ice climbs in winter I work as a professional ski patroller at a local resort in the Catskills. I am an EMT and have volunteered on my community ambulance squad since 2006.

Most memorable guiding/instructing moment:
I climbed Epinephrine at Red Rocks with a woman that had first imagined doing the route ten years before. I have worked many days with her over the years and in a variety of places from Carstenz Pyramid to Cochise Stronghold. Her toughness and determination has always amazed me. The chimneys that guard the the more straightforward climbing above were incredibly challenging for her and yet there she was on a chill November morning scraping, grunting and groaning her way tenaciously upward. On the summit of Black Velvet Peak she thanked me and wept from the effort and joy of accomplishment. We got down to the car just as darkness settled onto the desert floor with silence and stars.

Joe’s Social Channels:

Website | Instagram

Al Smith III

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Lives:
Cullowhee, NC

Works:
Western Carolina University

AMGA Training Level
• Certified Single Pitch Instructor
• Certified Climbing Wall Instructor

What are your top 2 favorite places to climb?
Western North Carolina & Indian Creek

Who is your climbing hero and why?
Too many to list probably. I am inspired and motivated to pursue higher and further because of a number of people within “The Tribe” of climbers.

What’s one little known fact about you?
I am an AT thru hiker (SOBO class of 2012)

Personal Bio:
Born and raised in Western Pennsylvania, I am fortunate to call Western Carolina home now. Prior to NC, I lived in Colorado for about 5 years. Besides climbing trees, I first tried rock climbing 10+ years ago and have been seriously afflicted with the climbing bug since about 7 years ago. Personally, I enjoy days of multi pitch trad climbing around Western NC, as well as time spent in The West. Particularly, Indian Creek. While I have far fewer days there then I’d like, it is a place that humbles me – in many aspects, each time I visit. Furthermore, I’m proud to have lent a hand to a dear homie and writer Luke Mehall in co-founding The Climbing Zine – an independent rock climbing publication.

Most memorable guiding/instructing moment:
I suppose those that have been doing it for lots of years have a definitive moment that they call “Most Memorable.” For me, however, I struggle to say one moment was above all better than the other. I fancy myself an in-the-moment person, and am delighted when a day spent outdoors guiding and instructing results in clients or students having their personal best days. This to me, is the epitome of what it means to guide and teach.

Al’s Social Channels:

Website | Blog

Albert Alverez

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Lives:
El Paso, TX

Works:
Sessions Climbing and Guiding

AMGA Training Level
• Certified Single Pitch Instructor
• CWI Provider
• Apprentice Rock Guide

What are your top 2 favorite places to climb?
Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site & The Tunnel, NM

Who is your climbing hero and why?
Tough question, but I would have to say Todd Skinner. His mindset for climbing was a progressive one that involved making climbing in general less work and more fun. He brought free climbing to big walls and made hang dogging acceptable. I think it was his ideas that have paved the way for making climbing more mainstream and acceptable to the general public. People don’t like the idea of spending weeks or months on the side of wall, but getting to the top of a multi-pitch route in a day is the small accomplishment and adventure that people love to add to their lives, and it’s thanks to Todd Skinner.

What’s one little known fact about you?
I fell 120 ft off a mountain once, and I think it was the worst and best thing to ever happen to me.

Personal Bio:
Albert Alvarez is from El Paso, TX and is passionate about running, rock climbing, and the great outdoors. His lifelong dedication to these three things has served him well in life and have always been his avenue to success. Albert decided to pursue a career as a professional guide because his first hand experiences with AMGA guides were beyond his expectations, and he himself wanted to bring out the best in others just like his mentors and guides did for him. It was with this mindset that Albert returned to El Paso to start his own climbing and guiding business in and effort to share his passion for climbing and the outdoors with others.

Most Memorable Guiding/Instructing Moment:
There are two things I always remember as a guide.
First, I always remember when things go wrong while guiding, and everything I do to face the adversity while ensuring my clients are clueless to the mishap. Stories like that are great for fires (or blogs), and make me a better person/guide.
Secondly, I always remember the feelings I get from watching a client become comfortable in a situation that is normally beyond their comfort. The moments where as a guide I get to see individuals face their fears and become a better version of themselves as they overcome them.

Albert’s Social Channels:

Instagram | Blog

Kerr Adams

Kerr Adams

Lives:
Albuquerque, NM

Works:
Mountain Madness & SWS Mountain Guides

AMGA Training Level
• Apprentice Rock Guide

What are your top 2 favorite places to climb?
Alaska Range & Patagonia (El Chalten)

Who is your climbing hero and why?
I have always looked up to Steve House. For me, he changed the way we approach alpine climbing objectives and encouraged focusing on the entire experience of the climb, not just reaching a summit by any means possible. He has been a major in influence on making my own climbing pursuits a richer and more fulfilling endeavor.

What’s one little known fact about you?
I love musicals.

Personal Bio:
I started guiding in 2011 after a memorable internship in Ecuador and Pakistan. I fell in love with helping people learn, meet their goals and surpass their perceived limitations. Guiding has taken me places, introduced me to unique cultures and provided me with a sense of satisfaction beyond my wildest imaginations. Everything from secret ice climbs in Colorado to the high mountains of the Karakoram and everything in between. I can’t wait for what’s next.

Most memorable guiding/instructing moment:
In 2011 I was invited to Ecuador to shadow a guide on a 14 day Ecuador volcanoes trip. I had no real aspirations to be a mountain guide at the time, I went to see what it was all about. By the end of the trip I had fallen in love with the profession and knew it was what I wanted to do. The satisfaction I received from helping the guests succeed and learn during the trip was unparalleled to anything I have ever done before.

Kerr’s Social Channels:

Website | Instagram