Ice Instructor Program
About
The AMGA Ice Instructor Program is designed for those who wish to guide in technical multi-pitch ice climbing terrain with multiple clients. Terrain includes waterfall ice, alpine ice, and mixed climbing conditions. This program focuses on refining your skills to lead clients through diverse ice and mixed climbing environments while facilitating a rewarding client experience.
Please note, the AMGA welcomes both skiers and splitboarders into the program. For simplicity, “ski” is used throughout this page. Please note that when “ski” is used, it is meant to include “ski and splitboard” or “skier and splitboarder.”
Program Overview
Program Details
The Ice Instructor Course (IIC) is a fundamental component of the education and certification process for alpine guides and is designed for skilled rock and ice climbers. This course addresses the skills and techniques used while instructing and guiding in single and multi-pitch ice terrain. The course is also a pathway for guides who intend to take the Ice Instructor Exam and become specialists in ice guiding.
The IIC includes indoor and outdoor classroom time, practice sessions with coaching and feedback, and climbing on a variety of water ice climbs. Climbing routes are from one to five pitches in length and up to WI 4+ in difficulty. As the course progresses, student will have the opportunity to apply guiding skills while leading single and multi-pitch ice routes.
It is important for students to come to the course with well-established skills in leading ice climbs, including placing protection and building strong anchors. Recreational ice climbing skills and judgment will be screened throughout the daily activities.
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current approved Wilderness First Responder Certification (WFR)
- Completion of Recreation Level 1 Avalanche Training & Avalanche Rescue Course (AAI, AIARE, SAS, or AAA)
- Successful completion of the Rock Guide Course OR both the Alpine Rock Module & the Alpine Snow and Glacier Modules
- AMGA strongly recommends that IIC students are both Apprentice Alpine & Apprentice Rock Guides prior to enrolling in this program
- Completion of the below route requirements, submitted via resume with application:
- 20 led or shared lead ice routes
- 10 of which are WI 4 or harder
- 20 led or shared lead ice routes
‍
All students on Mountain Guide Programs must meet AMGA Essential Eligibility Criteria.
Additional Experience & Movement Criteria for IIC‍
- Minimum three years of ice climbing experience
- Confidence leading WI 4 at the time of the course
- Competence in placing ice protection, building ice threads, & placing traditional rock protection
- Proficiency with basic knots, including but not limited to: rewoven figure 8, figure 8 and overhand bight knots, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, munter mule hitch, flat overhand, double fisherman's, and autoblock, prusik and klemheist friction hitches
- Proficiency with multiple types of belay devices, including assisted braking devices (ABDs)
- Proficiency with a variety of rappel devices on multi-pitch rappels
- Familiarity with Leave No Trace practices
- You should be capable of leading the climbs listed on your submitted resume and arrive physically, mentally, and emotionally prepared for multiple consecutive days of ice climbing and instruction over the entirety of the course
- Students should be experienced with early starts and long days that are demanding
- Familiar with LNT Practices
The Ice Instructor Exam is designed to assess and certify ice climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA standards for guiding waterfall ice.
During the 6-day exam you will be guiding your peers and examiners on routes up to 3 pitches in length, focusing. on client experience and maximizing movement and teaching opportunities. Routes will be chosen to assess ice guiding skills and will be up to WI 4+ with minimal approach and descent challenges. There may be occasional need to manage 3rd and 4th class terrain where short-roping is required.
Assessment Areas
- Movement at the WI 4+ climbing standard to be assessed over the entire program
- Ice specific rescue skills (these will be taught and practiced during the exam)
- Practical guiding days that include evaluation in the following areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, professionalism, and instructional technique.
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current approved Wilderness First Responder Certification (WFR)
- Completion of Recreation Level 1 Avalanche Training & Avalanche Rescue Course (AAI, AIARE, SAS, or AAA)
- Successful completion of the Rock Guide Course OR both the Alpine Rock Module and the Alpine Snow and Glacier Module
- Successful completion of the Ice Instructor Course
- Completion of the Alpine Guide Course is strongly recommended
- Completion of the below route requirements, submitted via resume with application:
- Since completing the IIC you have led or shared lead on 10 ice climbs WI 4+ or harder
- Since completing the IIC you have guided 20 days on multi-pitch ice routes; 10 of these days can be mock guided
‍
Additional Experience and Movement Criteria for IIE:
- Confidence leading ice and mixed routes up to WI 4+ M5 at the time of the exam
- Familiar with LNT practices
Program Schedule
Application Process
Alpine Guide Program
Gain the skills to guide on peaks, glaciers, and technical alpine terrain in all conditions.
