AMGA Alpine Guide

The Alpine Guide Certification is designed for people who guide glaciated and non-glaciated peaks, approaches and climbs, with no limitation with respect to season and elevation. It includes rock climbs, peak ascents, waterfall ice climbs, and expeditionary climbing. The alpine program progression will help you fine-tune your skills in alpine snow, mixed, waterfall ice, and glaciated terrain.

To enter the program you must first successfully complete the Rock Guide Course or the Alpine Skills Course, depending on if you are pursuing IFMGA certification or Alpine Guide certification only, and meet all the prerequisites for the Alpine Guide Course. As well, you must have a solid experience base and knowledge of technical mountain travel.

To get your Alpine Guide Certification, you must complete:

The 8 or 10-day Rock Guide Course (RGC) plus the 8-day Alpine Guide Course (AGC); or the 7-day Alpine Rock Module (ARM) plus the 6-day Alpine Snow & Glacier Module (ASGM)
The 5-day Ice Instructor Course (IIC)
The 9-day Advanced Alpine Guide Course and Aspirant Exam (AAGC/AE)
The 9-day Alpine Guide Exam (AGE)
Successful completion of an AMGA approved Pro 2, or Level III
For details on the updated avalanche education framework introduced in the 2017/18 season, please click here.
Current CPR Certification
Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR

Although this is a demanding program, it opens up tremendous opportunities for you as a professional guide.

Program Information

Alpine Skills Course
The ASC addresses guiding techniques commonly used on simple glacier routes that may include rock scrambles up to Class 4 with short steps of easy 5^th class. The terrain might also require technical descents, management and movement of multiple clients, small team rescue and other related skills and knowledge.

There will be considerable structured practice in the ASC. Techniques will be presented and/or demonstrated, you will practice on the ground, and then practice in venues that are representative of the terrain. Because of the short nature of the course it may not be practical to access certain terrain.

The Alpine Skills Course is appropriate for guides entering the Ski Guide discipline or for those who may be interested in learning basic guiding techniques.

Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of a Level I Avalanche Training and Avalanche Rescue Course
  - For details on the updated avalanche education framework introduced in the 2017/18 season, please click here.
- Two years personal climbing experience on a variety of terrain that includes snow, rock and alpine
- Confidence leading 5.6 in rock shoes, at the time of the course
- Confidence on 3rd and 4th class terrain, in mountain boots, at the time of the course
- Competence in overnight backcountry camping
- Experience up to 10,000' in elevation
- Familiar with basic knots, including: figure 8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule hitch, prusik, flat overhand, double fisherman's and klemheist
- Confidence placing traditional rock protection
- Familiar with multiple types of belaying techniques, including plates and assisted braking devices
- Familiar with ascending methods
- Familiar with mechanical advantage systems
- Familiar with LNT practices
- Documentation of lead or shared lead on 5 rock climbs rated 5.6 or harder
- Documentation of lead or shared lead on 5 ascents that include snow climbing
- Documentation of 3 overnight backcountry trips
Alpine Rock Module
The Alpine Rock Module (ARM) prepares competent alpine rock climbers to guide non-glaciated, rock-dominant alpine terrain, focusing on the techniques necessary for guiding clients in alpine environments. As part of the Alpine Guide discipline, the ARM and the Alpine Snow and Glacier Module (ASGM) can be completed to achieve the Apprentice Alpine Guide credential. The ARM emphasizes hands-on practice, coaching, and feedback to develop essential alpine rock guiding skills.

Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of a Level I Avalanche Training and Avalanche Rescue Course, or AMGA approved Level II
  
  For details on the updated avalanche education framework introduced in the 2017/18 season, please click here.
- A climbing resume (format provided by the AMGA) that includes, at a minimum, the following climbs, will be required upon submission of your application for this course:
  
  Lead or shared lead on 20 different alpine routes in alpine climbing areas such as the North Cascades, Rocky Mountain National Park, Beartooths, or the Tetons. The 20 alpine routes should fulfill the following criteria:
  
  7 or more are alpine routes rated 5.8 or harder
  
  10 or more are alpine routes with a commitment grade of Grade III or higher
  
  5 or more are alpine climbs rated 5.6 or harder that were climbed in mixed conditions w/ boots and crampons (note: We encourage you to focus on honing this skill by climbing bolted mixed routes that contain snow and ice in crampons and that are up to M3 in difficulty. The AMGA has noted many students with a lack of experience moving in terrain that is between the medium of pure rock and snow routes.)
  
  2 completed within two years of the application due date
  
  Lead or shared lead on 5 snow climbs that are rated 40 degrees or steeper
Alpine Snow & Glacier Module
The Alpine Snow & Glacier Module (ASGM) is designed to equip competent snow and glacier climbers with the essential skills needed to guide on glaciated and snow-covered alpine terrain. This module focuses on the techniques necessary for guiding clients in these environments, with minimal emphasis on scrambling or 5th-class rock. As part of the Alpine Guide discipline, the ASGM and the Alpine Rock Module (ARM) can be completed to achieve the Apprentice Alpine Guide credential.

Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of a Level I Avalanche Training and Avalanche Rescue Course, or AMGA approved Level II
  - For details on the updated avalanche education framework introduced in the 2017/18 season, please click here.
- A climbing resume (format provided by the AMGA) that includes, at a minimum, the following climbs, will be required upon submission of your application for this course:
  - Lead or shared lead on 20 different alpine routes completed in alpine areas such as the Sierra, the Cascades, Rocky Mountain National Park, or Alaska. These 20 routes should fulfill the following criteria:
    - 10 or more are grade III or longer snow/glacier routes
    - 5 or more are 40 degrees or steeper
    - 5 or more of these climbs involved overnight camping in an environment with seasonal snow and/ or winter snow conditions
    - Lead or shared lead on 5 alpine/water ice routes that involve AI/WI 3 climbing or harder. The 5 routes should fulfill the following criteria:
      
      3 routes M3 or harder climbed in mixed conditions w/ boots and crampons (note: We encourage you to focus on honing this skill by climbing bolted mixed routes that contain snow and ice in crampons and that are up to M3 in difficulty. The AMGA has noted many students with a lack of experience moving in terrain that is between the medium of pure rock and snow routes.)
      
      2 routes completed within two years of the application due date
    - Lead or shared lead on 5 alpine rock climbs that involve 5.5 climbing or harder
Alpine Guide Course
The Alpine Guide Course (AGC) is designed to take a competent alpine climber and develop the fundamental skills they need to guide in diverse alpine environments. It provides training for aspiring guides and experienced guides who work in a wide range of alpine environments including alpine rock, snow and glacier, mixed terrain, alpine ice, and waterfall ice. The AGC emphasizes a hands-on approach to the mechanics of guiding on alpine terrain. As part of the Alpine Guide discipline, the AGC can be completed after completing the Rock Guide Course to achieve the Apprentice Alpine Guide credential.

Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of a Level I Avalanche Training and Avalanche Rescue Course, or AMGA approved Level II
  - For details on the updated avalanche education framework introduced in the 2017/18 season, please click here.
- Successful completion of the Rock Guide Course**
- A climbing resume (provided by the AMGA) that includes, at a minimum, the following climbs, will be required upon submission of your application for this course:
- A total of 30 routes that are alpine rock and alpine snow/glacier/ice
  - Lead or shared lead on 15 different alpine rock routes in alpine climbing areas such as the North Cascades, Rocky Mountain National Park, the Sierra, or the Tetons. The 15 routes should fulfill the following criteria:
    - 5 of which are alpine routes rated 5.8 or harder
    - 10 or more are grade III or longer
    - 5 of which are alpine climbs that are rated 5.6 or harder that were climbed in mixed conditions. (note: We encourage you to focus on honing this skill by climbing bolted mixed routes that contain snow and ice in crampons and that are up to M3 in difficulty. The AMGA has noted many students with a lack of experience moving in terrain that is between the medium of pure rock and snow routes.)
      
      2 routes completed within two years of the application due date
  - Lead or shared lead on 10 different snow/glacier climbs completed in alpine areas such as the Sierra, the Cascades, Rocky Mountain National Park, or Alaska. These 10 routes should fulfill the following criteria:
    - 5 or more are grade III or longer
    - 5 or more snow climbs rated 40 degrees or steeper
    - 5 or more involve overnight camping in an environment with seasonal snow and/or winter snow conditions
  - Lead or shared lead on 5 alpine/water ice routes that involve AI/WI 3 climbing or harder.
  - Of these 30 routes at least 10 have been completed within two years of the application due date
**Alpine Skills Courses completed in 2024 or earlier, can be used as a prerequisite for the 8-day AGC through 2026. After 2026, the ASC will not be accepted as a prerequisite for the 8-day AGC. ASC graduates are STRONGLY encouraged to take the ARM module before the AGC, or to take both modules as a path to becoming an Apprentice Alpine Guide. Please contact the office to discuss what path will best set you up for success.
Ice Instructor Course
The Ice Instructor Course (IIC) is a fundamental component of the alpine guide education and certification process and is designed for skilled rock and ice climbers. This course addresses the skills and techniques used while instructing and guiding in single- and multi-pitch ice terrain. This course can also be taken as continuing education by AMGA guides who have already passed through the Alpine discipline.

Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of a Level I Avalanche Training and Avalanche Rescue Course, or AMGA approved Level II
  - For details on the updated avalanche education framework introduced in the 2017/18 season, please click here.
- Successful completion of the Rock Guide Course; or successful completion of both the Alpine Rock Module and Alpine Snow and Glacier Module
  - AMGA strongly recommends Ice Instructor Course students are both Apprentice Alpine and Apprentice Rock Guides before enrolling into the program
- 3 years ice climbing experience
- Confidence leading WI 4, at the time of the course
- Familiar with basic knots, including: figure 8, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule hitch, flat overhand, double fisherman's and klemheist
- Competence placing ice protection, building ice threads, and placing traditional rock protection
- Familiar with a variety of rappel devices on multi-pitch rappels
- Familiar with LNT practices
- Documentation of 2o lead or shared lead ice routes (10 of which are WI 4 or harder)
Format:
The IIC includes indoors and outdoors classroom time, practice sessions, and climbing on a variety of water ice climbs. Recreational climbing skills and judgment are screened as part of the daily activities. The course focuses on practical experience where the students are guiding the terrain. Climbing routes are from one to five pitches. Students are expected to place solid gear and have a good working knowledge of multi-pitch ice guiding. The routes will be up to WI 4+ in difficulty. The course introduces some of the recommended methods common to water ice guiding through sessions and practical application.
Ice Instructor Exam
The Ice Instructor Exam is designed to assess and certify ice climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA ice guiding standards for individuals who do not guide on glacier ice.

Format:

During the 6 day exam you will be guiding your peers and examiners on routes up to 3 pitches in length that fall within the Scope of Practice for Certified Ice Instructors. Routes will be chosen based on their unique challenges and will be up to WI 4+ with minimal approach and descent challenges.

Expectations:

While on the IIE you will be guiding 2-3 pitch routes focusing on the client experience and maximizing movement and teaching opportunities. Minimal focus will be on moving quickly and managing 3rd and 4th class terrain where short-roping is required.

Assessment Areas:

Candidates will be assessed on their movement at the WI 4+ climbing standard, ice specific rescue skills (these will be taught and practiced during the exam), and guided days assessment with evaluation in the following areas: Risk Management, Client Care, Technical Systems, Application, Terrain Assessment, Movement Skills, Professionalism, and Instructional Technique.

Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of a Level I Avalanche Training and Avalanche Rescue Course, or AMGA approved Level II
  - For details on the updated avalanche education framework introduced in the 2017/18 season, please click here.
- Successful completion of the Rock Guide Course and Ice Instructor Course; completion of the Alpine Guide Course is strongly recommended
- Confidence leading ice and mixed routes up to WI 4+ M5 at the time of the exam
- Since completing the IIC you have led or shared lead on 10 ice climbs WI 4+ or harder
- Since completing the IIC you have guided 20 days on multi-pitch ice routes; 10 of these days can be mock guided
Advanced Aline Guide Course & Assistant Exam
The 9-day Advanced Alpine Guide Course (AAGC) helps accomplished climbers develop the skills and techniques they use while instructing and guiding in a glaciated alpine setting. It covers the tools used when guiding and instructing multiple clients on longer routes up to Grade V—management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, simultaneous multi-client belaying, technical descents, management and movement of multiple clients, and small team rescue skills. It emphasizes effective risk management while maximizing client rewards.

Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of an AMGA approved or Pro 1, or Level II
  - For details on the updated avalanche education framework introduced in the 2017/18 season, please click here.
- Successful completion of the Alpine Guide Course
- Successful completion of the Ice Instructor Course
- Confidence leading 5.10a in rock shoes and 5.7 in mountain boots, at the time of the course
- Confidence leading WI 4, at the time of the course
- Confidence with French Technique on firm 40 degree snow, at the time of the course
- Familiar with short roping, short pitching, lowering, rappelling, and the associated transitions
- Familiar guiding multiple clients, including managing two clients simultaneously on two ropes
- Comfortable leading in complex glaciated terrain
- Familiar with LNT practices
- Since completing the Alpine Guide Course, documentation of lead or shared on 10 different glacier routes with significant crevasse difficulty
- Since completing the Alpine Guide Course, documentation of lead or shared lead on 5 different alpine routes Grade IV or longer
- Since completing the Alpine Guide Course, documentation of lead or shared lead on 5 different ice climbs rated WI 4 or harder
- Since completing the Alpine Guide Course, documentation of 10 guided/mock-guided days in diverse alpine terrain
Format:

The AAGC includes instruction, coaching, debriefing, and assessment. The assessment phase in known as the Aspirant Exam. The focus of the course is on principle-based learning, giving you the strategies for problem solving through coaching and practical application in simulated guide/client scenarios. Guiding and instructional skills will be assessed during the Aspirant Exam portion(s) of the course. A final assessment will be based on your overall performance.

Assistant Exam:

The Assistant Exam is intended to help determine whether or not your personal skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding. In addition, it serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision. Finally, your essential skills and abilities as an Aspirant Guide must be comparable to those of a full guide.

Assessment Areas:
- Screening of movement skills in rock and alpine terrain;
- Technical skills assessment including 45-minute alpine rock rescue drill
- Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following 7 areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, and professionalism.
Alpine Guide Exam
The goals of the 9-day Alpine Guide Exam (AGE) are to assess and certify alpine climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of students.

Format:

You are expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners during the exam. You serve as guides to the examiners and to the other participants on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. You are responsible for route planning, client orientation, risk management, and normal guiding practices while acting as the guide. Route assignments and client profiles are usually given the night before. You are responsible for obtaining information about the assigned route as well as alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.

Expectations:

The exam is conducted on routes in alpine terrain and may include glaciated and non-glaciated peaks, approaches, and climbs, with no limitation. It includes rock climbs, peak ascents, and waterfall climbs. A strong emphasis is placed on expertise in short roping clients.

Assessment Areas:

Screening of movement skills in rock, alpine, snow, ice, and mixed terrain; Crevasse Rescue Drill; Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following 7 areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills and professionalism.

Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of an AMGA approved Pro 2, or Level III
  - For details on the updated avalanche education framework introduced in the 2017/18 season, please click here.
- Successful completion of the Advanced Alpine Guide Course and Aspirant Exam
- Confidence leading 5.10a in rock shoes, at the time of the exam
- Confidence leading 5.7 in mountain boots, at the time of the exam
- Confidence leading WI 4, at the time of the exam
- Confidence with French Technique on firm 40 degree snow, at the time of the exam
- Familiar with LNT practices
- Since completing the AAGC/AE, you have led or shared lead on 5 different alpine routes grade IV or longer
- Since completing the AAGC/AE, you have led or shared lead on 10 different traditional style rock climbs rated 5.10a or harder
- Since completing the AAGC/AE, you have guided 10 paid days in diverse alpine terrain, with at least 5 in complex glaciated terrain

Alpine Programs Schedule

Applications for the Alpine Skills Course and the new Alpine Guide Course, Alpine Rock Module, an Alpine Snow & Glacier Module open on September 17, 2024
For information on how to apply to a program and how applications are reviewed, click here.
Additional Mountain Guide Program FAQs can be found here.
Alpine Program Redesign FAQs can be found here.

Program Type	Code	Location	State	Dates	Tuition	Status	Apply
Advanced Alpine Guide Course/AE	A9 AAGC 25	Cascades	Washington	6/9/25 - 6/16/25	$4650.00	Open	Apply
Advanced Alpine Guide Course/AE	A13 AAGC 25	Cascades	Washington	7/9/25 - 7/17/25	$4650.00	Open	Apply
Advanced Alpine Guide Course/AE	A15 AAGC 25	Cascades	Washington	8/2/25 - 8/10/25	$4650.00	Opens 12/20/24
Advanced Alpine Guide Course/AE	A18 AAGC 25	Cascades	Washington	9/3/25 - 9/11/25	$4650.00	Opens 12/20/24
Alpine Guide Course	A1 AGC 25	Boulder/Estes	Colorado	4/23/25 - 4/30/25	$4400.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Alpine Guide Course	A4 AGC 25	Boulder/Estes	Colorado	5/15/25 - 5/22/25	$4400.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Alpine Guide Course	A5 AGC 25	Sierra	California	6/4/25 - 6/11/25	$4400.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Alpine Guide Exam	A14 AGE 25	Cascades	Washington	7/22/25 - 7/30/25	$4650.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Alpine Guide Exam	A16 AGE 25	Cascades	Washington	8/13/25 - 8/21/25	$4650.00	Opens 12/20/24
Alpine Guide Exam	A17 AGE 25	Cascades	Washington	8/22/25 - 8/29/25	$4650.00	Opens 12/20/24
Alpine Guide Exam	A20 AGE 25	Cascades	Washington	9/15/25 - 9/23/25	$4650.00	Opens 12/20/24
Ice Instructor Course	I1 IIC 25	Ouray	Colorado	1/6/25 - 1/10/25	$3250.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Ice Instructor Course	I2 IIC 25	Ouray	Colorado	1/13/25 - 1/17/25	$3250.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Ice Instructor Course	I3 IIC 25	Ouray	Colorado	2/3/25 - 2/7/25	$3250.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Ice Instructor Course	I5 IIC 25	Littleton	New Hampshire	2/10/25 - 2/14/25	$3250.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Ice Instructor Course	I6 IIC 25	Canmore	Alberta	2/17/25 - 2/21/25	$3250.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Ice Instructor Course	I8 IIC 25	Ouray	Colorado	2/10/25 - 2/14/25	$3250.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Alpine Skills Course	A10 ASC 25	Boulder/Estes	Colorado	6/12/25 - 6/16/25	$2400.00	Open	Apply
Alpine Skills Course	A12 ASC 25	Mt Erie/Mt Baker	Washington	6/19/25 - 6/23/25	$2400.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Alpine Skills Course	A22 ASC 25	Mt Erie/Mt Baker	Washington	6/5/25 - 6/10/25	$2400.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Alpine Skills Course	A23 ASC 25	Boulder/Estes	Colorado	7/10/25 - 7/14/25	$2400.00	Open	Apply
Ice Instructor Exam	I4 IIE 25	Littleton	New Hampshire	2/3/25 - 2/8/25	$3600.00	Space Available!	jesse@amga.com
Alpine Snow & Glacier Module	A7 ASGM 25	Cascades	Washington	5/15/25 - 5/20/25	$2700.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Alpine Snow & Glacier Module	A8 ASGM 25	Cascades	Washington	5/29/25 - 6/3/25	$2700.00	Waitlist	Waitlist
Alpine Snow & Glacier Module	A19 ASGM 25	Cascades	Washington	9/4/25 - 9/9/25	$2700.00	Open	Apply
Alpine Rock Module	A11 ARM 25	Boulder/Estes	Colorado	6/19/25 - 6/25/25	$3150.00	Open	Apply
Alpine Rock Module	A21 ARM 25	Boulder/Estes	Colorado	11/6/25 - 11/12/25	$3150.00	Opens 12/20/24
Alpine Rock Module	A24 VETERANS ARM 25	Cascades	Washington	8/19/25 - 8/25/25	$3150.00	Opens 12/20/24

Application and Notification Deadlines

The application deadline is when your complete application is due.
The notification deadline is the latest date you will be contacted in regard to your enrollment.

Applications received after the application deadline will be reviewed on a rolling admission.

Program Dates	Application Deadline	Notification Deadline
Ski, Ice, and Rock Programs with start dates of November 15, 2024 - May 31, 2025	August 29, 2025	September 23, 2024 *S23 SGC 24 & I10 IIC 24 Notification Deadline: September 6, 2024
April & May Alpine Programs and all Program with start dates of June 1 - July 31, 2025	October 28, 2024	November 22, 2024
August 1 - November 15, 2025	January 23, 2025	February 20, 2025