AMGA Rock Guide
To enter the program you must have a strong technical rock climbing background in a variety of rock types and climbing disciplines.
To get your Rock Guide Certification, you must complete:
- The 10-day Rock Guide Course (RGC)
- The 10-day Advanced Rock Guide Course & Aspirant Exam (ARGC/AE)
- The 6-day Rock Guide Exam (RGE)
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
Program Information
Rock Guide Course
This is the entry-level course for the Rock Guide and Alpine Guide programs and the Rock Instructor Certification. The Rock Guide Course (RGC) is designed for aspiring guides who have a strong rock climbing background and for instructors who are interested in improving their skills and increasing knowledge. The RGC trains aspiring guides on routes up to Grade III and 5.9 while emphasizing risk management and client rewards. You are expected to arrive with a strong recreational climbing background with an acquired knowledge of knots, belaying, anchors, protection strategies, and climbing systems. It is assumed that you can lead the climbs listed on the submitted resume and that you are physically, mentally, and emotionally prepared for a week of outdoor activity.
Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Five years personal rock climbing experience
- Confidence leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.9, at the time of the course
- Familiar with basic knots, including: figure 8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule hitch, prusik, flat overhand, double fisherman's and klemheist
- Familiar with multiple types of mechanical and non-mechanical belay devices
- Familiar with a variety of rappel devices on multi-pitch rappels
- Familiar with LNT Practices
- You have led 10 traditional climbs rated 5.10a or harder on various rock types (single or multi-pitch)
- You have led or shared lead on 10 grade III trad rock routes
- You have led or shared lead 50 multi-pitch rock routes
Format:
The RGC includes indoor and outdoor classroom time, practice sessions, and climbing on a variety of rock routes. Recreational climbing skills and judgment are screened as part of the daily activities. The course is designed to introduce some of the recommended methods common to rock guiding through sessions and practical application.Advanced Rock Guide Course & Aspirant Exam
The Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE (ARGC/AE) covers the tools used when guiding and instructing multiple clients on longer routes up to Grade V—management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, simultaneous multi-client belaying, lowering and rappelling, management of transitions, and short roping and short pitching techniques. It emphasizes effective risk management while maximizing client rewards.
Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of the Rock Guide Course
- You are confident leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.10+/A2, at the time of the course
- Since completing the Rock Guide Course, you have led 10 different traditional routes rated 5.10+ or harder
- You have led or shared lead on at least 10 Grade IV or longer traditional rock routes (5 of these have been completed since your Rock Guide Course)
- Since completing the Rock Guide Course, you have guided or mock guided a minimum of 20 rock routes Grade III or longer
Format:
The ARGC/AE is a course and includes instruction, coaching, debriefing, and assessment. The assessment phase is known as the Aspirant Exam. The focus of the course is on principle-based learning, giving you the strategies for problem solving through coaching and practical application in simulated guide/client scenarios. Your guiding and instructional skills will be assessed during the Aspirant Exam portion(s) of the course. A final assessment will be based on your overall performance.
Aspirant Exam:
The Aspirant Exam is intended to help determine whether or not your personal skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding. In addition, it serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision. Finally, your essential skills and abilities as an aspirant guide must be comparable to those of a full guide.
Assessment Areas:
- Screening of movement skills in rock terrain;
- A technical skills assessment that includes a 45-minute rock rescue drill and a five-minute knot-pass drill;
- Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following nine areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, mountain sense, professionalism, and instructional technique.
Rock Guide Exam
The goals of the six-day Rock Guide Exam (RGE) are to assess and certify rock-climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of students.
Format:
During the exam you are expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners. You serve as guides to the examiners and to the other participants on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. While acting as the guide, you are responsible for route planning, client orientation, risk management, and normal guiding practices. Route assignments and client profiles are usually given the night before. You are responsible for obtaining information about the assigned route as well as alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.
Expectations:
The longer routes (Grade IV and V) undertaken on the RGE require proficiency with multi-client belaying techniques, strong application skills, efficient climbing and protective systems skills and quick and accurate transitions. A strong emphasis is placed on expertise in short roping clients.
Assessment Areas:
- Screening of movement skills in rock terrain;
- Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following nine areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, mountain sense, professionalism, and instructional technique.
Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of the Advanced Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam
- Confidence leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.10+/A2, at the time of the exam
- Since completing the ARGC/AE, you have led or shared lead on 10 climbs that are rated 5.11a or harder (sport or traditional)
- Since completing the ARGC/AE, you have guided 20 days on multi-pitch traditional routes. Of these 20 days, 15 can be mock-guided, 7 are Grade III or longer, and 3 are Grade IV or longer
Rock Programs Schedule
- R29 RGC 23 and R31 RGC 23 are new programs. The application deadline is July 12, 2023. Notifications will be sent by July 18, 2023.
- 2023 Prices have been updated as of April 3, 2023.
- For information on how to apply to a program and how applications are reviewed, click here
- For the complete AMGA Course Schedule, click here
| Program Type | Code | Location | State | Dates | Tuition | Status | Apply |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE | R12 ARGC 23 | Boulder | Colorado | 9/5/23 - 9/14/23 | $3600.00 | Open | Apply |
| Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE | R13* ARGC 23 | Red Rock NCA | Nevada | 9/19/23 - 9/26/23 | $4450.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE | R17* ARGC 23 | Black and Unaweep Canyons | Colorado | 9/30/23 - 10/7/23 | $4450.00 | Open | Apply |
| Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE | R20 ARGC 23 | Red Rock NCA | Nevada | 10/3/23 - 10/12/23 | $3600.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE | R26 ARGC 23 | Red Rock NCA | Nevada | 10/31/23 - 11/9/23 | $3600.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE | R30 ARGC 23 | Red Rock NCA | Nevada | 10/19/23 - 10/28/23 | $3600.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Course | R10* RGC 23 | Boulder | Colorado | 6/13/23 - 6/20/23 | $4250.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Course | R11 RGC 23 | North Conway | New Hampshire | 9/5/23 - 9/14/23 | $3600.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Course | R14* RGC 23 | Boulder | Colorado | 9/19/23 - 9/26/23 | $4450.00 | Open | Apply |
| Rock Guide Course | R19 RGC 23 | Seneca Rocks | West Virginia | 10/3/23 - 10/12/23 | $3600.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Course | R21 RGC 23 | Smith Rock | Oregon | 10/10/23 - 10/19/23 | $3600.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Course | R22 RGC 23 | Boulder | Colorado | 10/10/23 - 10/19/23 | $3600.00 | Open | Apply |
| Rock Guide Course | R25* RGC 23 | Red Rock NCA | Nevada | 11/1/23 - 11/8/23 | $4450.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Course | R27 RGC 23 | Joshua Tree | California | 11/7/23 - 11/16/23 | $3600.00 | Open | Apply |
| Rock Guide Course | R28 *Veterans* RGC 23 | Leavenworth | Washington | 9/19/23 - 9/28/23 | $3600.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Course | R33 RGC 23 | Boulder | Colorado | 6/22/23 - 7/1/23 | $3400.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Course | R34 *BIPOC* RGG 23 | Boulder | Colorado | 9/23/23 - 9/30/23 | $4450.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Course | R35 *WMNS* RGC 23 | Red Rock NCA | Nevada | 10/6/23 - 10/13/23 | $4450.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Course | R29 RGC 23 | Smith Rock | Oregon | 10/18/23 - 10/27/23 | $3600.00 | Open | Apply |
| Rock Guide Course | R31 RGC 23 | Boulder | Colorado | 10/22/23 - 10/31/23 | $3600.00 | Open | Apply |
| Rock Guide Exam | R16 RGE 23 | Red Rock NCA | Nevada | 9/27/23 - 10/2/23 | $3400.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Exam | R18 RGE 23 | Boulder | Colorado | 10/2/23 - 10/7/23 | $3400.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Exam | R23 RGE 23 | Red Rock NCA | Nevada | 10/16/23 - 10/21/23 | $3400.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
| Rock Guide Exam | R24 RGE 23 | Red Rock NCA | Nevada | 10/23/23 - 10/28/23 | $3400.00 | Waitlist | Waitlist |
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 3:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 2:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 2:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 3:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 3:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 2:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: January 9, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 3:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 2:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 3:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 3:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 3:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 2:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 3:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
This program is only open to VETERANS of the US Military who wish to use their GI Bill funds to pay for the course. This course is run through the American Alpine Institute (an AMGA accredited business), who are accredited and approved to accept GI Bill funding.
In order to participate on this Alpine Guide Course, you must:
1) Be a veteran of the US Military
2) Apply to the program, pay the non-refundable $65.00 application fee, and submit all of the required application materials (resume, WFR/CPR, and AMGA approved avalanche training certs) to show that you meet the prerequisites for the AGC
3) Email Jesse Littleton ([email protected]) proof of veteran status
4) Once your materials have been reviewed, you will be eligible to become enrolled in the course if space is available (like all AMGA programs, entrance is competitive and we may receive more applications than we have spaces available - meeting the prerequisites is not a guarantee of enrollment, please review the process for application review here.
5) If accepted into the program, you will be sent a document describing how to complete the enrollment process and use your VA benefits to pay for the program. You cannot be officially enrolled until you have completed the VA Benefits Survey and Enrollment Agreement through the American Alpine Institute.
If you have any questions about this course, the application review/enrollment process, how to use your VA benefits, or anything else related to this program, please contact Jesse Littleton ([email protected]).
Through our reflection on diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI), the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) has identified affinity based access as a key area of growth. Affinity programs are designed to create space for AMGA members from underrepresented groups within guiding, instructing, climbing, and skiing/snowboarding. We recognize the need to serve larger communities and we are collaborating with partners that share this vision. With the generous support of AMGA partner, Black Diamond, we have created an opportunity to take the next step in the Rock Guide track, with an Affinity BIPOC Rock Guide Course that will serve historically underrepresented communities within the AMGA.
This course is designed for anyone who identifies as BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, People of Color) and would like to continue their education as a rock guide. Tuition assistance is given in the form of a full scholarship to all those accepted into the program.
Please note there are two parts to the application process. You must complete both the RGC Resume and the Scholarship Essay Application. For more information, go to: https://amga.com/programs/affinity-programs/.
Completed applications are due by March 31, 2023. This program will be taught by Joshua Jarrin and Joe Thompson.
Over the last few years, the American Mountain Guides Association has reflected on diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) within our association, recognizing areas of growth and creating an action plan. One of our key focuses is creating accessibility to our courses through various initiatives like the women’s Single Pitch Instructor Course and women’s Rock Guide Course. We recognize the need to serve larger communities and have worked to secure partners that share this vision. With the support of The North Face, we have launched the next steps to the Rock Guide track, with a Rock Guide Course that will serve historically underrepresented communities within the American Mountain Guides Association.
This course is designed for anyone who identifies as a woman and would like to continue their education as a rock guide. Tuition assistance is given in the form of a scholarship to all those accepted into the program. We would like to support underrepresented communities to pursue guide training and education at the AMGA. Please note there are two parts to the application process. For more information, go to: https://amga.com/programs/affinity-programs/
Completed applications are due by March 31, 2023.
This program has recently been added to the calendar. Applications will remain open until July 12, 2023 and enrollment notifications will be delivered by July 18, 2023.
This program has recently been added to the calendar. Applications will remain open until July 12, 2023 and enrollment notifications will be delivered by July 18, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 2:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 2:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 2:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, equipment, or any other associated program costs unless otherwise noted. This is a 2:1 student to Instructor ratio program.
APPLICATION DEADLINE: April 3, 2023.
Application and Notification Deadlines
- The application deadline is when your complete application is due.
- The notification deadline is the latest date you will be contacted in regard to your enrollment.
- Applications received after the application deadline will be reviewed on a rolling admission.
Program Dates Application Deadline Notification Deadline SOL Mountain Lodge SGC 2022 June 22, 2022 July 14, 2022 Programs with start dates of January 1 - May 29, 2023 September 7, 2022 October 5, 2022 Programs with start dates of May 30 - June 30, 2023 January 9, 2023 February 8, 2023 Programs with start dates of July 1 - November 30, 2023 April 3, 2023 May 3, 2023
