AMGA Rock Guide

This is the entry-level course for the Rock Guide and Alpine Guide programs and the Rock Instructor Certification. The Rock Guide Course (RGC) was designed for aspiring guides who have a strong rock climbing background and for instructors who are interested in improving their skills and increasing knowledge. The RGC trains aspiring guides on routes up to Grade III and 5.9 while emphasizing risk management and client rewards. You are expected to arrive with a strong recreational climbing background with an acquired knowledge of knots, belaying, anchors, protection strategies, and climbing systems. It is assumed that you can lead the climbs listed on the submitted resume and that you are physically, mentally, and emotionally prepared for a week of outdoor activity.

Prerequisites:

• Current AMGA member
• Completion of a CPR and WFR Course (minimum 80 hours)
• Five years personal rock climbing experience
• Confidence leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.9, at the time of the course
• Familiar with basic knots, including: figure 8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule hitch, prusik, flat overhand, double fisherman's and klemheist
• Familiar with multiple types of mechanical and non-mechanical belay devices
• Familiar with a variety of rappel devices on multi-pitch rappels
• Familiar with LNT Practices
• You have led 10 traditional climbs rated 5.10a or harder on various rock types (single or multi-pitch)
• You have led or shared lead on 50 multi-pitch routes (10 of which are Grade III or longer)

Format:
The RGC includes indoor and outdoor classroom time, practice sessions, and climbing on a variety of rock routes. Recreational climbing skills and judgment are screened as part of the daily activities. The course is designed to introduce some of the recommended methods common to rock guiding through sessions and practical application.

The Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE (ARGC/AE) covers the tools used when guiding and instructing multiple clients on longer routes up to Grade V—management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, simultaneous multi-client belaying, lowering and rappelling, management of transitions, and short roping and short pitching techniques. It emphasizes effective risk management while maximizing client rewards.

Prerequisites:

• You are a current AMGA member
• You have completed a CPR and WFR Course (minimum 80 hours)
• You have successfully completed the Rock Guide Course
• You are confident leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.10+/A2, at the time of the course
• Since completing the Rock Guide Course, you have led 10 different traditional routes rated 5.10+ or harder
• You have led or shared lead on at least 10 Grade IV or longer rock routes (5 of these have been completed since your Rock Guide Course)
• Since completing the Rock Guide Course, you have guided or mock guided a minimum of 20 rock routes Grade III or longer

Format:

The ARGC/AE is a course and includes instruction, coaching, debriefing, and assessment. The assessment phase is known as the Aspirant Exam. The focus of the course is on principle-based learning, giving you the strategies for problem solving through coaching and practical application in simulated guide/client scenarios. Your guiding and instructional skills will be assessed during the Aspirant Exam portion(s) of the course. A final assessment will be based on your overall performance.

The ARGC/AE is a course and includes instruction, coaching, debriefing, and assessment. The assessment phase is known as the Aspirant Exam. The focus of the course is on principle-based learning, giving you the strategies for problem solving through coaching and practical application in simulated guide/client scenarios. Your guiding and instructional skills will be assessed during the Aspirant Exam portion(s) of the course. A final assessment will be based on your overall performance.

Aspirant Exam:

The Aspirant Exam is intended to help determine whether or not your personal skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding. In addition, it serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision. Finally, your essential skills and abilities as an aspirant guide must be comparable to those of a full guide.

Assessment Areas:

• Screening of movement skills in rock terrain;
• A technical skills assessment that includes a 45-minute rock rescue drill and a five-minute knot-pass drill;
• Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following nine areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, mountain sense, professionalism, and instructional technique.

The AMGA would like to thank Black Diamond for sponsoring the Rock Guide Exam.

The goals of the six-day Rock Guide Exam (RGE) are to assess and certify rock-climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of students.
 

Format:

During the exam you are expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners. You serve as guides to the examiners and to the other participants on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. While acting as the guide, you are responsible for route planning, client orientation, risk management, and normal guiding practices. Route assignments and client profiles are usually given the night before. You are responsible for obtaining information about the assigned route as well as alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.

Expectations:

The longer routes (Grade IV and V) undertaken on the RGE require proficiency with multi-client belaying techniques, strong application skills, efficient climbing and protective systems skills and quick and accurate transitions. A strong emphasis is placed on expertise in short roping clients.

Assessment Areas:

• Screening of movement skills in rock terrain;
• Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following nine areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, mountain sense, professionalism, and instructional technique. 

Prerequisites:

• Current AMGA member.
• Completion of a CPR and WFR Course (minimum 80 hours).
• Successful completion of the Advanced Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam.
• Confidence leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.10+/A2, at the time of the exam.
• Since completing the ARGC/AE, you have mock-guided/guided 20 days on multi-pitch routes. Of these 20 days 7 are Grade III or longer, and 3 are Grade IV or longer.
• FOR 2016, since completing the ARGC/AE, you have led or shared lead on 10 climbs that are rated 5.11a or harder (sport or traditional).
• FOR 2016, since completing the ARGC/AE, you have guided 20 days on multi-pitch routes. Of these 20 days, 15 can be mock-guided, 7 are Grade III or longer, and 3 are Grade IV or longer.