AMGA Rock Guide
To enter the program you must have a strong technical rock climbing background in a variety of rock types and climbing disciplines.
To get your Rock Guide Certification, you must complete:
- The 10-day Rock Guide Course (RGC)
- The 10-day Advanced Rock Guide Course & Aspirant Exam (ARGC/AE)
- The 6-day Rock Guide Exam (RGE)
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
Program Information
Rock Guide Course
This is the entry-level course for the Rock Guide and Alpine Guide programs and the Rock Instructor Certification. The Rock Guide Course (RGC) was designed for aspiring guides who have a strong rock climbing background and for instructors who are interested in improving their skills and increasing knowledge. The RGC trains aspiring guides on routes up to Grade III and 5.9 while emphasizing risk management and client rewards. You are expected to arrive with a strong recreational climbing background with an acquired knowledge of knots, belaying, anchors, protection strategies, and climbing systems. It is assumed that you can lead the climbs listed on the submitted resume and that you are physically, mentally, and emotionally prepared for a week of outdoor activity.
Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Five years personal rock climbing experience
- Confidence leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.9, at the time of the course
- Familiar with basic knots, including: figure 8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule hitch, prusik, flat overhand, double fisherman's and klemheist
- Familiar with multiple types of mechanical and non-mechanical belay devices
- Familiar with a variety of rappel devices on multi-pitch rappels
- Familiar with LNT Practices
- You have led 10 traditional climbs rated 5.10a or harder on various rock types (single or multi-pitch)
- You have led or shared lead on 50 multi-pitch rock routes (10 of which are Grade III or longer)
Format:
The RGC includes indoor and outdoor classroom time, practice sessions, and climbing on a variety of rock routes. Recreational climbing skills and judgment are screened as part of the daily activities. The course is designed to introduce some of the recommended methods common to rock guiding through sessions and practical application.Advanced Rock Guide Course & Aspirant Exam
The Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE (ARGC/AE) covers the tools used when guiding and instructing multiple clients on longer routes up to Grade V—management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, simultaneous multi-client belaying, lowering and rappelling, management of transitions, and short roping and short pitching techniques. It emphasizes effective risk management while maximizing client rewards.
Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of the Rock Guide Course
- You are confident leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.10+/A2, at the time of the course
- Since completing the Rock Guide Course, you have led 10 different traditional routes rated 5.10+ or harder
- You have led or shared lead on at least 10 Grade IV or longer rock routes (5 of these have been completed since your Rock Guide Course)
- Since completing the Rock Guide Course, you have guided or mock guided a minimum of 20 rock routes Grade III or longer
Format:
The ARGC/AE is a course and includes instruction, coaching, debriefing, and assessment. The assessment phase is known as the Aspirant Exam. The focus of the course is on principle-based learning, giving you the strategies for problem solving through coaching and practical application in simulated guide/client scenarios. Your guiding and instructional skills will be assessed during the Aspirant Exam portion(s) of the course. A final assessment will be based on your overall performance.
Aspirant Exam:
The Aspirant Exam is intended to help determine whether or not your personal skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding. In addition, it serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision. Finally, your essential skills and abilities as an aspirant guide must be comparable to those of a full guide.
Assessment Areas:
- Screening of movement skills in rock terrain;
- A technical skills assessment that includes a 45-minute rock rescue drill and a five-minute knot-pass drill;
- Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following nine areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, mountain sense, professionalism, and instructional technique.
Rock Guide Exam
The goals of the six-day Rock Guide Exam (RGE) are to assess and certify rock-climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of students.
Format:
During the exam you are expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners. You serve as guides to the examiners and to the other participants on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. While acting as the guide, you are responsible for route planning, client orientation, risk management, and normal guiding practices. Route assignments and client profiles are usually given the night before. You are responsible for obtaining information about the assigned route as well as alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.
Expectations:
The longer routes (Grade IV and V) undertaken on the RGE require proficiency with multi-client belaying techniques, strong application skills, efficient climbing and protective systems skills and quick and accurate transitions. A strong emphasis is placed on expertise in short roping clients.
Assessment Areas:
- Screening of movement skills in rock terrain;
- Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following nine areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, mountain sense, professionalism, and instructional technique.
Prerequisites:
- Current AMGA member
- Current CPR Certification
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) Certification or higher that meets the Minimum Guidelines and Scope of Practice for a WFR
- Successful completion of the Advanced Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam
- Confidence leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.10+/A2, at the time of the exam
- Since completing the ARGC/AE, you have led or shared lead on 10 climbs that are rated 5.11a or harder (sport or traditional)
- Since completing the ARGC/AE, you have guided 20 days on multi-pitch routes. Of these 20 days, 15 can be mock-guided, 7 are Grade III or longer, and 3 are Grade IV or longer
Rock Programs Schedule
- Applications will open on August 1st, 2019 for all 2020 Mountain Guide programs
- For information on how to apply to a program and how applications are reviewed, click here
- For the complete AMGA Course Schedule, click here
- Read about the new Multi-Pitch Instructor Course & Exam being offered in 2020 here (more details to come soon)!
This isn ARGC that is running at a 2:1 ratio and is only 8 days long.
This program will begin in Unaweep Canyon, CO and transfer to the Black Canyon.
The course will start in Unaweep Canyon where there is excellent 1-4/5 pitch cimbing to begin the program. Mid course, the program will transfer to the Black Canyon (less than two hour drive time).
The Black Canyon is noted for big walls, adventurous climbing and epics. While there is no shortage of run outs, loose rock, poison ivy and commitment, there are also mega classics with splitter cracks and solid rock, and these are the routes that we will be seeking on this ARGC. The grades are consistant with every trad area in the country.
The classic routes are traveled frequently and are free of choss. There are few fixed anchors but there are spacious ledges and abundant protection on the classics. This stated, you are likely to have most routes to yourself, allowing you to focus on your climbing and guiding, and not on the other people vying for the same route. The camping on the North Rim is amazing, and is considered one of the best campgrounds at any climbing area.
The Black offers a great venue for aspiring guides to dial in their techniques and apply their craft in an area where efficiency, security and skill are paramount. Taking your ARGC in the Boulder/Black venue will help expose you to different venues and rock types in your AMGA progression and help set you up for success during your RGE.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
This is a 10 day, 3:1 ratioed Advanced Rock Guide Course.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
This is a low-ratio 2:1 Advanced Rock Guide Course that runs for 8 days.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
This is a trial 2:1 ratio Rock Guide Course. The program is shortened to 8 days and will have a maximum of 8 students and 4 instructors.
Weather and condiion dependent, this program may also utilize Lump Ridge in Estes Park, Colorado.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
Student Karen Hilton works her way up the Bastille Crack in Eldorado Canyon during the 2016 RGC in Boulder. Photo by student Brandon Phillips.
Weather and condiion dependent, this program may also utilize Lump Ridge in Estes Park, Colorado.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
Student Karen Hilton works her way up the Bastille Crack in Eldorado Canyon during the 2016 RGC in Boulder. Photo by student Brandon Phillips.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
This program is only open to VETERANS of the US Military who wish to use their GI Bill funds to pay for the course. This course is run through the American Alpine Institute (an AMGA accredited business), who are accredited and approved to accept GI Bill funding.
In order to participate on this Rock Guide Course, you must:
2) Apply to the program, pay the non-refundable $65.00 application fee, and submit all of the required application materials (resume and WFR/CPR) to show that you meet the prerequisites for the RGC
4) Once your materials have been reviewed, you will be eligible to become enrolled in the course if space is available (like all AMGA programs, entrance is competitive and we may receive more applications than we have spaces available - meeting the prerequisites is not a guarantee of enrollment, please review the process for application review here)
5) If accepted into the program, you will be sent a document describing how to complete the enrollment process and use your VA benefits to pay for the program. You cannot be officially enrolled until you have completed the VA Benefits Survey and Enrollment Agreement through the American Alpine Institute.
If you have any questions about this course, the application review/enrollment process, how to use your VA benefits, or anything else related to this program, please contact Peter Schultz ([email protected]).
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
A student leads the way during the 2016 RGC at Smith Rock. Photo by Instructor Pete Keane.
This is a small program limited to 6 students. Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
Student Kate McHugh leading Western Saga during the 2016 RGC in Joshua Tree. Photo by Azissa Singh.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
Student Kate McHugh leading Western Saga during the 2016 RGC in Joshua Tree. Photo by Azissa Singh.
Women's Rock Guide Course
This program will take place in the Front Range of Colorado. Venues could include Eldorado Canyon, The Flatirons, or Rocky Mountain National Park at places like Lumpy Ridge, Hallets, or The Petit Grepon.
Tuition does not include food, lodging, or travel.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
Program tuition does not include food, lodging, transportation, or other course expenses unless otherwise noted.
2020 Application and Notification Deadlines
- The application deadline is when your complete application is due.
- The notification deadline is the latest date you will be contacted in regard to your enrollment.
- Applications received after the application deadline will be reviewed on a rolling admission.
Program Dates Course or Exam Code Application Deadline Notification Deadline All programs with start dates between December 1, 2019 and April 30, 2020 S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8, S9, S10, S11, S12, I1, I2, I3, I4, I5, I6, A1, R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 Sunday, September 15, 2019 Friday, October 18, 2019 All programs with start dates between May 1, 2020 and July 31, 2020 A2, A17, A3, A4, A5, A6, A7, A8, A9, A10, A11, A12, R8, R9, R10, R11, R12 Sunday, December 15, 2019 Friday, January 17, 2020 All programs with start dates between August 1, 2020 and November 30, 2020 A13, A18, A19, A14, A15, A16, R13, R14, R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20, R28, R21, R22, R23, R24, R26, R27 Sunday, March 15, 2020 Early July, 2020
