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Rock

  • Overview#1

    discipline_rock_colorThe foundation of technical guiding, The Rock Guide Program prepares and trains you for a professional level of technical instruction and guiding in rock terrain. You will learn or refine your skills in risk-management, industry standards, route finding, technical skills, terrain assessment, rescue scenarios, and client care.

    To enter the program you must have a strong technical rock climbing background in a variety of rock types and climbing disciplines.

    To get your Rock Guide Certification, you must complete:

    • The 10-day Rock Guide Course (RGC)
    • The 10-day Advanced Rock Guide Course & Aspirant Exam (ARGC/AE)
    • The six-day Rock Guide Exam (RGE)
    • Be certified in CPR and have a minimum 60 hours in WFR (or equivalent).

  • Flowchart#2

    RockGuide

  • Rock Guide Course#3

    This is the entry-level course for the Rock Guide and Alpine Guide programs and the Rock Instructor Certification. The Rock Guide Course (RGC) was designed for aspiring guides who have a strong rock climbing background and for instructors who are interested in improving their skills and increasing knowledge. The RGC trains aspiring guides on routes up to Grade III and 5.9 while emphasizing risk management and client rewards. You are expected to arrive with a strong recreational climbing background with an acquired knowledge of knots, belaying, anchors, protection strategies, and climbing systems. It is assumed that you can lead the climbs listed on the submitted resume and that they are physically, mentally, and emotionally prepared for a week of outdoor activity.

    Prerequisites:

    At the time of the course:

    • You must be able to safely and comfortably lead climb both traditional and sport style routes up to 5.9;
    • You have led or shared lead on 50 different multi-pitch traditional routes of which 10 are Grade III or longer;
    • You have lead 10 traditional routes 5.10a or harder. These may be single- or multi-pitch routes.
    • Be certified in CPR and have a minimum 60 hours in WFR (or equivalent).

    Format:
    The RGC includes indoor and outdoor classroom time, practice sessions, and climbing on a variety of rock routes. Recreational climbing skills and judgment are screened as part of the daily activities. The course is designed to introduce some of the recommended methods common to rock guiding through sessions and practical application.

  • Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE#4

    The Advanced Rock Guide Course/AE (ARGC/AE) covers the tools used when guiding and instructing multiple clients on longer routes up to Grade V—management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, simultaneous multi-client belaying, lowering and rappelling, management of transitions, and short roping and short pitching techniques. It emphasizes effective risk management while maximizing client rewards.

    Prerequisites:

    • At the time of the course, you must be able to safely and comfortably lead climb both traditional and sport style routes up to 5.10+/A2;
    • Since successfully completing the Rock Guide Course (RGC):
      1. You have guided or mock guided a minimum of 20 traditional style routes Grade III or longer;
      2. You have led 10 traditional style routes (or pitches) that are 5.10+ or harder;
      3. You have led or shared lead on 10 traditional style routes Grade IV or longer, five of which must be completed after having successfully completed the RIC.

    Format:
    The ARGC/AE is a course and includes instruction, coaching, debriefing, and assessment. The assessment phase is known as the Aspirant Exam. The focus of the course is on principle-based learning, giving you the strategies for problem solving through coaching and practical application in simulated guide/client scenarios. Your guiding and instructional skills will be assessed during the Aspirant Exam portion(s) of the course. A final assessment will be based on your overall performance.

     

  • Aspirant Exam#5

    The ARGC/AE is a course and includes instruction, coaching, debriefing, and assessment. The assessment phase is known as the Aspirant Exam. The focus of the course is on principle-based learning, giving you the strategies for problem solving through coaching and practical application in simulated guide/client scenarios. Your guiding and instructional skills will be assessed during the Aspirant Exam portion(s) of the course. A final assessment will be based on your overall performance.

    Aspirant Exam:
    The Aspirant Exam is intended to help determine whether or not your personal skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding. In addition, it serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision. Finally, your essential skills and abilities as an aspirant guide must be comparable to those of a full guide.

    Assessment Areas:

    • Screening of movement skills in rock terrain;
    • A technical skills assessment that includes a 45-minute rock rescue drill and a five-minute knot-pass drill;
    • Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following nine areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, mountain sense, professionalism, and instructional technique.

  • Rock Guide Exam Sponsored By Black Diamond#6

    Diamond-Logo-size.BD_

    The AMGA would like to thank Black Diamond for sponsoring the Rock Guide Exam. Not only does Black Diamond’s financial support keep tuition costs low, but the company also provides graduates with the climbing gear they need.

    The goals of the six-day Rock Guide Exam (RGE) are to assess and certify rock-climbing guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of students.

     

    Format:
    During the exam you are expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners. You serve as guides to the examiners and to the other participants on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. While acting as the guide, you are responsible for route planning, client orientation, risk management, and normal guiding practices. Route assignments and client profiles are usually given the night before. You are responsible for obtaining information about the assigned route as well as alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.

    Expectations:
    The longer routes (Grade IV and V) undertaken on the RGE require proficiency with multi-client belaying techniques, strong application skills, efficient climbing and protective systems skills and quick and accurate transitions. A strong emphasis is placed on expertise in short roping clients.

    Assessment Areas:

    • Screening of movement skills in rock terrain;
    • Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following nine areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, mountain sense, professionalism, and instructional technique. 

  • Rock Guide Exam Prerequisites#7

    Prerequisites:

    • At the time of the course, students are expected to safely and comfortably lead climb both traditional and sport style routes up to 5.10+/A2 in difficulty;
    • Since completing the Advanced Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam you must have:
      1. Guided 20 days on multi-pitch rock traditional routes. Of these 20 days 15 are allowed to be mock guiding:
      2. Of which seven must be Grade III or longer;
      3. Of which 3 must be Grade IV or longer

  • Rock Guide Course Areas and Lengths#8

    Course Area(s) & Length:

    • The RGC is 10 days. It is typically held in Joshua Tree National Park, Calif., Eldorado Canyon State Park, Colo., Smith Rock State Park, Oregon, and North Conway, NH.
    • The ARGC is 10 days. It is typically held in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area in Las Vegas, Nev.
    • The RGE is six days. It is typically held in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area in Las Vegas, Nev.