For up to date information on the 2008 Annual Meeting and for travel and lodging information near Smith Rock State Park Click Here.
We look forward to seeing you out there!!
The 2009 Program Schedule is now posted and the office is accepting applications for all 2009 programs. Please choose one of the following disciplines or download a 2009 Program Schedule (PDF).
As always, please remember that tuition payments are due in full ten (10) weeks prior to the start of any course or exam. If payment is not received by that time your spot may be filled by the next qualified applicant. Furthermore, if you apply for a program within the ten (10) week payment deadline, then the full tuition payment will be collected at that time. If you wish to drop or transfer you must do so at least eight (8) weeks prior the start of any course of exam if you wish to receive a refund. And, as always, a $150.00 Application Fee will be deducted from any transfer or refund.
Thank you all for taking part in AMGA programs!
Join us for an evening of Steep Stone, Wild Water and Deep Snow in your community as The 2008 Alpinist Film Festival hits the road! (link to: www.alpinist.com/film_festival/tour08)
AMGA members (including spouses and kids) and paying clients of AMGA guides are now eligible for personal accident insurance under the AMGA group Outdoor Recreation Insurance (ORI) policy. ORI is specifically designed for snow, mountain and paddle enthusiasts. Our policy provides activity-specific benefits for ambulance and medical expenses (including emergency helicopter ambulance) and also provides a lump sum payment in case of a covered accidental death. Only persons aged 14-64 may enroll.
Interested members and clients must click on the AMGA/ORI web link to enroll and pay the applicable one-time premium. If you access the ORI website from another URL address, the site will not allow you to create an account.
AMGA members will be asked to enter their 5-digit AMGA member ID number. In addition to annual coverage, daily rates have been developed and are available to paying clients of AMGA certified guides. In place of an AMGA member ID number, clients of AMGA guides or guiding services must enter their guide’s 10-digit phone number in the following format: XXX-XXX-XXXX. You may create a single account and enroll multiple clients. Otherwise, please instruct your clients that they may themselves enter the ORI website through the AMGA website and obtain coverage.
Highlights:
A summary is attached in PDF format, which explains how our new ORI coverage augments our existing insurance programs. You may also click through our AMGA/ORI Link and browse the site for additional information.
The AMGA is proud to offer a WFR Review & Recertification Course in partnership with the Wilderness Medicine Training Center in Bend, OR at the 2008 AMGA Annual Meeting. The Review & Recertification course is designed for graduates of Wilderness First Responder courses from any company. Our Review & Recertification course focuses on trauma and environmental problems. Over 60% of the course is hands-on skill review, role plays, and simulations.
Dates: Oct. 15,16,17, 2008
Cost: $200.00 (due by Oct. 1st, 2008)
Deposit: $50.00
Registration Form: Click Here
Contact: Henry Beyer, AMGA Program Director, at program.director@amga.com or 303.271.0984
All of WMTC WFR certifications are 3 years, and are accepted by all federal and state agencies.
The Wilderness Medicine Training Center was established in 1997 to provide the highest-quality training available in wilderness medicine and risk management. WMTC courses expertly meld decades of field experience and training with the latest research and technology.
WMTC provides unrivaled training for serious students of pre-hospital wilderness care and risk management. The curriculum and instructors are some of the finest in the world. Graduates receive the tools they need to prevent and handle the emergencies, accidents and illnesses they will experience in the real world. Courses are hands-on, intense, practical, and fun. They are also small enough to guarantee ample personal attention.
WMTC instructors have been carefully selected from a field of high-quality applicants to ensure that they have the right combination of outdoor, medical, and teaching experience-then they undergo the toughest instructor training program in the business. Their lessons are backed by their extensive experience in the field as guides, trip leaders, and medical officers; each has been there...and continues to go there. Every instructor is an expert in one or more outdoor pursuits and each has a wealth of practical experience and stories to share. Instructors are also highly skilled educators, adept at translating their knowledge into information you can understand and use. They make sure you learn the skills you need to make effective decisions in a wilderness environment.
All WMTC medical courses are rigorous, fun and fast-paced, with lots of hands-on practice. In general, you will spend the mornings in lecture and labs, and in the afternoons you will work on skills training and simulations. Instructors and students help cultivate an atmosphere that is intense and supportive, challenging and inspiring. Classes are designed to maximize your real-world learning. Lectures teach how the body works, so you will understand why it doesn't. The courses teach you how to think; there are no "grocery" lists. Homework and quizzes are based on realistic case studies in order to challenge and solidify your learning, and prepare you for increasingly difficult simulations.
Hands-on labs teach you the treatment skills required to perform under challenging field situations. Starting on the first day of the course, you'll face realistic simulations designed to build your field experience and judgment. Each simulation is carefully constructed to develop and challenge your skills. Your instructors use the inevitable mistakes as a source of constructive feedback that helps you and your classmates learn from what went wrong, as well as what went right.
Superintendent Eric Brunnemann has announced, "All sensitive areas have been reopened and will remain so until January when the raptors return and begin to select nest areas."
For details concerning who is eligible to apply for the Single Trip Guide CUAs Click Here.
Contact:
Pam Bennett
The North Face
501.618.3654
Betsy Novak, Executive Director
American Mountain Guides Association
303.271.0984
betsy@amga.com
www.amga.com
Salt Lake City, Utah – The North Face, the world’s premier supplier of authentic, innovative and technically advanced outdoor apparel, equipment and footwear, is the 2008 recipient of the American Mountain Guides Association’s (AMGA) Industry Award. AMGA Executive Director Betsy Novak will present the award to The North Face at this year’s Summer Market Outdoor Retailer Show.
The Industry Award is presented annually to an outdoor company that has shown outstanding support through scholarships, products, and sponsorships of professional mountain guides. The North Face has partnered with the AMGA to provide educational support for the past twelve years and became a Diamond Partner in 2004. The North Face is the official sponsor of all AMGA Alpine Guide Certification exams, helping to reduce tuition costs. The North Face provides one full tuition scholarship each year for an AMGA Alpine Guide course or exam. This scholarship provides financial support for mountain guides seeking training and certification in the United States.
“It is a great honor to present this award to The North Face for their significant and ongoing support of professional mountain guides in the United States. This award is a small token of our appreciation to The North Face for their exceptional and long-term partnership with the American Mountain Guides Association.” said Betsy Novak, Executive Director of the AMGA.
The American Mountain Guide’s Association (AMGA) is the premier source for training, credentials, and services for professional mountain guides and climbing instructors in the United States. The AMGA is the sole US representative of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA). For more information please visit www.amga.com.
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The The North Face, a division of VF Outdoor, Inc., was founded in 1968. Headquartered in San Leandro, California, the company offers the most technically advanced products in the market to accomplished climbers, mountaineers, snowsport athletes, endurance athletes, and explorers. The company's products are sold in specialty mountaineering, backpacking, running, and snowsport retailers, premium-sporting goods retailers and major outdoor specialty retail chains. For more information please visit www.thenorthface.com.
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Currently, all registrations for the November 2-4 AMGA SPI Course and the November 5-6 SPI Assessment are available through the AORE conference website. Once people are registered, allow two (2) to three (3) weeks to receive any pre-course texts or information. For interested participants who are not registered attendees of the AORE conference the price is 10% more than the listed price. To register or learn more please visit the AORE website. https://www.aore.org/conference/confRegistration.aspx
Superintendent Dave Uberuaga announced today that the 2009-2010 Commercial Use Authorization(CUA) program for Mount Rainer is accepting applications for CUAs starting September 1st, 2008.
For details concerning who is eligible to apply for the Single Trip Guide CUAs Click Here.
The time has arrived to nominate guides worthy for the AMGA's Annual Lifetime Achievement Award and Outstanding Guide Award! Provided below is a description of the awards and qualifications. Please submit nominations to the AMGA Membership Director, Katie Kelly, at katie@amga.com by August 18th, 2008.
The Lifetime Achievement in Mountain Guiding Award is to honor outstanding Americans, who by their efforts over a period of years, have made contributions of significant value to the profession of mountain guiding, and have reflected credit upon America and themselves.
The Guide who receives the Lifetime Achievement in Mountain Guiding Award embodies the following distinguishing traits:
This annual award is presented at the Award Ceremony, which takes place each year at the American Mountain Guides Association Annual Meeting.
The AMGA Awards Committee and Membership would like to honor, recognize and congratulate the following individuals for their commitment and contributions to the profession of mountain guiding.
The American Mountain Guides Outstanding Guide Award is awarded annually for the most outstanding mountain guide achievement in the profession of mountain guiding for the year.
The Guide who receives the American Mountain Guides Association Outstanding Guide Award embodies the following distinguishing traits:
This annual award is presented at the Awards Ceremony, which takes place at the American Mountain Guides Association Annual Meeting.
The AMGA Awards Committee and Membership would like to honor, recognize and congratulate the following individuals for their commitment and contributions to the profession of mountain guiding.
There will be a Climbing Wall Instructor Provider Training at the Annual Meeting in Bend, OR this year. The training will be held on the 24-25 of October. Please contact the office for more information.
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
Dates: November 2-4
Cost: $435.00 per person
Location: Joshua Tree National Park
Camping Reserved: Joshua Tree National Park Sheep Pass group site
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Assessment
Dates: November 5-6
Cost: $230.00 per person
Location: Joshua Tree National Park
Camping Reserved: Joshua Tree National Park Sheep Pass group site
Program Overview
The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program is designed to enable instructors to ‘proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting’. The program is for current, active rock climbers that have a real desire to teach the rock climbing to novices in a single pitch setting. Candidates should be passionate rock climbers that have their own equipment, regularly climb and have been rock climbing outdoors for at least 12 months. Candidates could be current University Professors that teach climbing, Climbing Instructors, Scout Leaders, Summer Camp Professionals or climbers that wish to achieve additional training, experience and certification to gain employment as a Climbing Instructor in the Outdoor Industry.
The SPI Course is not a ‘climbing’ course it is an instructor training course for current, proficient and active rock climbers and for climbing instructors who currently teach rock climbing that wish to gain the SPI Certification. The SPI is the first stage of the AMGA’s Rock Discipline guide training and certification program and will significantly help candidates that wish to work towards the next stage in the program, the AMGA Rock Instructor Course. The course teaches many instructor specific topics such as professionalism, teaching techniques, risk management, group site organization, climbing site conservation/LNT and assistance/rescue skills.
The SPI Program is a three day (27 hour) training course and separate two day (16 hour) assessment. Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification. After three years current SPI’s can re-take the SPI Assessment to re-gain the SPI certification.
For more information and to register please contact the AMGA National Office at betsy@amga.com
.After several months of intense brainstorming by a few members of the AMGA Board of Directors, a new mission statement for the AMGA was presented to the entire board for adoption at the recent June board meeting. By a unanimous vote the following mission statement was approved:
The American Mountain Guide’s Association (AMGA) is the premier source for training, credentials, and services for professional mountain guides and climbing instructors in the United States.
Matt Farmer(IFMGA), Dawn Glanc(Certified Rock Guide), Kevin Mahoney(IFMGA), and Bayard Russell Jr(Certified Rock Instructor) are currently attempting to climb an unnamed peak in Alaska to help raise awarenes for the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center in its fight against cancer. Quoting a New York Times article from May 18th, "The Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center in Seattle is sponsoring the climb in the Fairweather Mountains of southeast Alaska. The climb is not a fund-raiser, but is meant to bring awareness to the need for continuous research." To learn more please vist the following websites:
Calling all Certified Guides….If you don’t already know about our partnership with Vail Valley Medical Center, please read on…
Vail Valley Medical Center is the exclusive hospital provider to the AMGA ~ Benefits
This is an unique opportunity for all AMGA Certified Guides. Please feel free to contact the office at 303.271.0984 orkatie@amga.com with any questions.
The AMGA Annual Meeting is a time-honored tradition that brings together the largest gathering of American mountain guides. It is the perfect opportunity for AMGA Members and guides to participate in professional development clinics, share ideas, discuss current issues and celebrate the guiding community.
This year’s Annual Meeting will take place in Smith Rock, Oregon. Smith Rock State Park encompasses 651 acres on the Oregon high desert plateau. There are over 1500 climbing routes in and around the park with some of the best sport climbs in the world. So mark your calendars, buy your tickets….we look forward to seeing you all in Oregon this fall!
Annual Meeting Schedule
All right folks, you asked for it and so here it is. The AMGA Forum is live, up on our website, located under resources. Here you will find:
The forum page is open to all AMGA Members to provide content and observations. We highly encourage folks to ask questions about programs, arrange car pools for peoples next course or exam, and submit observations/beta from your local areas.
The information contained on our forum has either been given to us or obtained from sources that we deem reliable. We have no reason to doubt its accuracy, but we do not guarantee it. The prospective user of the information should carefully verify each item and all other information contained or referred to on our resources and forum page.
The American Mountain Guides Association offers comments and insights to the officials at the USDA Forest Service in help of the preparation of Proposed Directives for Forest Service Outfitting and Guiding. Attached is a (PDF) of the draft Directives.
Use on land and waters administered by the USDA Forest Service (FS) has historically fallen into three categories:
The Proposed Directives:
The key element in the FS proposal is the division of commercial use into two categories:
Priority use and Temporary Use.
Temporary Use
Core elements of the Temporary Use category include:
The AMGA strongly supports Accountable Group Use and Streamlined Access. Under the Streamlined Access draft Directives, the AMGA supports:
The AMGA offers recommendations and insights on the following topics regarding this draft Directives:
The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is pleased to announce that Petzl America has joined the AMGA as its newest Diamond Level Partner.
As the Official Headlamp Sponsor of the AMGA, Petzl America will help keep dark nights in the mountain alight by providing headlamps to core members of the AMGA Instructor Team and to select Certified Guides. In addition to the headlamp provisions, Petzl will offer a one full-tuition scholarship to an AMGA member per year. "As a Diamond Partner, we will actively participate in promoting the highest standards of professional guiding through education and certification," says Mark Givens, Sports Division Manager for Petzl America.
Petzl's core values of safety, education, and innovation are consistent with the AMGA mission and the fact that Petzl has been supporting the AMGA since 1990 shows their level of commitment to the guiding profession in the United States. "We are very excited to name Petzl the Official Headlamp Sponsor of the AMGA. We hope that other companies will see Petzl's proactive approach as an opportunity to support working guides and instructors," says Betsy Novak, Executive Director of the AMGA.
Petzl has joined the AMGA as one of eight Diamond level Partners.. A large percentage of the Diamond level partnership funds go directly to AMGA members in the form of subsidized exams and full tuition scholarships.
Petzl America is the U.S. division of Petzl, headquartered in France. For over 50 years, Petzl has been developing innovative tools and techniques used by those entering the vertical world. Today, the Petzl brand is closely associated with adventure, exploration, rescue, and many notable exploits in the worlds of rock climbing and alpinism. Petzl climbing hardware and headlamps can be found in outdoor specialty shops and premium sporting goods retailers around the world. For more information, log on to www.petzl.com.
The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is an educational non-profit organization that supports the climbing and alpine community by training climbing instructors, skiing instructors and mountain guides. Using internationally accepted standards, the AMGA provides certification and accreditation to enhance the quality of services available to the public, while serving as a resource for accessing and protecting the natural environment. For more information please visit www.amga.com.
Please welcome New Partners to the AMGA The AMGA continues to grow our Corporate Partner Program and after meeting with current and potential partners at this winter's Outdoor Retailer Trade Show we would like to thank our core partners for their continued support and welcome on board new partners for 2008.
Petzl America signed on as the newest Diamond Partner of the AMGA and will become the official headlamp sponsor of our organization. Our Diamond Partners are committed to making a difference in the AMGA mission and the impact of its certified guides throughout the world. Diamond Partners contribute at least $10,000 each year and might sponsor courses and exams for an entire calendar year in a specific discipline, create a scholarship program in their company's name, or provide essential gear for the Instructor Team and programs by becoming a proud product sponsor of the AMGA.
Montrail came back on board for 2008 as a Benefactor Partner increasing their annual contribution to include one full-tuition scholarship open to candidates enrolled in any Rock or Alpine Program. Our Benefactors play a vital role in AMGA's continuing success by contributing at least $3,000 each year to our scholarship programs or extending our education, training, and certification activities. The AMGA counts on the critical mass of its Benefactor partners to enhance AMGA activities throughout the world.
Five Ten, Trango and Security National Insurance raised the bar by becoming Patron Partners of the AMGA. Our Patrons contribute at least $1,500 each year to support AMGA initiatives across a wide range of activities.
Atlas Snow-shoe Co., Kahru and Life Link have signed on as Supporting Partners of the AMGA. Becoming a Supporting Partner is a great way for individuals and companies alike to make a difference for the guiding community, Supporters contribute at least $500 each year to sustain AMGA's activities and programs.
We would like to give a warm welcome to all new AMGA Partners as well as a big thanks to all our current AMGA Partners. We could not do what we do without your support and generosity....!
The All New 2008 AMGA Program Catalog is now available for download. Sporting all new photos and updated content, as well as the newly revised Program Application, this catalog is sure to become a collectors item. Click on PROGRAMS in the menu bar above and then select 2008 Program Catalog.
An only child, Bela’s formative childhood years were spent exploring the Sierra with his father, Bela, and mother, Eva.
“My family immigrated when I was three and I grew up in San Francisco and I had a really good opportunity with my parents to visit the Sierra — a lot. … In 1959, I pretty much started skiing and backpacking and peak bagging with my parents, and so I just got that deep-rooted love for the Sierra.”
Around this time, the backpacking boom of the ‘60s was getting underway. A young Bela was able to tag along on harder core trips with his dad’s Austrian friends, who shared a lot of their mountain savvy with him. “They inspired me tremendously,” he recalls.
Common destinations included the Tuolumne Meadows high country, Cathedral Peak and Mt. Lyell in Yosemite.
“We’d do like an 1l-day trip from Tioga Pass to Devil’s Postpile by Mammoth,” Bela remembers. “When I got a little older, about 10, we’d do a lot of peak ascents along the way – Class 2 (off-trail scrambling), Class 3 peaks (hand/foot holds needed), until we had to turn back … We didn’t know how to use a rope, didn’t have a rope.”
During the 2007 Annual Meeting the Board of Directors elected to create individual logos for each certification category. These logos are in the final design stage and will be available soon to our certified members. Along with the new logos, the Board of Directors also decided to adopt a licensing agreement stipulating how the logos are to be used. The logo use policy can be found here.
When requesting a logo for a discipline you are certified in, you must first submit a signed copy of the licensing agreement which will be available soon as a PDF on the website. Once the office receives your request for a logo and a signed licensing agreement, the ofice will send you a a JPEG copy of the logo.
As mentioned before both the logos and the licensing agreement will be available soon. Please contact the office if you have any questions and/or comments.
As active members of the AMGA community it is important for all of use to be up-to-date on the latest changes taking place within our organization. In an effort to constantly improve, the Board of Directors in cooperation with the Technical Committee adopted a new Code of Ethics and instituted a set of Disciplinary Procedures. These steps are intended to raise the professionalism of our organization.
Please take a moment to look over these two documents. They can be found at, Code of Ethics(http://amga.com/about/code_of_ethics.php) and Disciplinary Procedure (http://amga.com/about/disciplinary_procedure.php).
The AMGA 2007 Annual Meeting in Yosemite, CA was a huge success! We had a great turnout ~ lots of good climbing, good food and good people. The atmosphere was productive and fun. It seemed that people enjoyed themselves and were genuinely excited to be there. The Professional Development Clinics went smoothly and the AMGA raised over $4,000 with the Silent Auction and Raffle. Overall the event was great and it would not have been possible without the help of a lot of folks.
First, we would like to thank our Title Sponsor, Patagonia and Opening Night Sponsor, Marmot. A big thanks goes out to OR, Arc'Teryx, Black Diamond, Gore, Brooks-Range, The North Face, Petzl, and Mammut .... we could not have done it without your support.
Also, we would like to thank Kyle and Cindy Lefkoff for their contribution to the this years meeting as well as their continued support of the AMGA.
Many thanks go out to Sara and Dave Bengston & Yosemite Mountaineering School for all their help and support in organizing this year's annual meeting and BOD dinner.
We were delighted that Lynn Hill was able to be the Presenter at 2007 meeting. Lynn presented a phenomenal slide show, Rocks Around the World ~ Tour and Technique, at our Main Event. Lynn's feats in Yosemite are legendary as well as her entire climbing history. It was a true pleasure having her join us in the Valley.
Thanks to Doug Nidever and his crew for organizing another incredible Guide Olympics.....I had the opportunity to participate and it was a definite highlight in my week.
Also, were would we have been without the gracious beer donations from New Belgium Brewery and Sierra Neveda. Cheers to you!
John Bicknell, Margaret Wheeler, Angela Hawse, Rob Hess, Phil Powers, John Race, Jim Williams, Keith Garvey, Pete Takeda, Jim Pearson, John Winsor, Peter Gould, Adam Fox, Dale Remsberg, Evan Stevens….We would also like to welcome Angela Hawse as the new AMGA Vice President.
Maury McKinney, Matt Brooks, Clint Cook, Dave Bengston, and Alan Jolley.
This years Award recipients were honored and celebrated at the Annual Meeting with a great turnout in a most inspiring venue, Yosemite National Park. The Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award went to George Hurley for his 50+years career as a mountain guide. He is one of the few who has put more first ascents than anyone and has more loving clients around the USA than most will ever dream of….he’s an inspiration for all of us other guides and climbers.
The Outstanding Guide of the Year Award went to Rob Hess, an owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, AMGA Technical Director and IFMGA Certified Guide. As Technical Director and AMGA Director, in the 2006-7 season, Rob impressively lead the implementation of the AMGA's Training and Certification Program restructure. He did this with speed and urgency and with this, has left a legacy for all present and future American guides. This restructure will greatly benefit all candidates who aspire to become professional guides in the industry.
The President’s Award honored Peter Absolon, the NOLS Rocky Mountain director and former AMGA board member, in recognition of his guiding, climbing skills and love of the mountains. Peter died Saturday, August. 10, 2007 in a rock-fall accident at the Leg Lake Cirque in the Wind River Range. Peter was a passionate climber and will be dearly missed.
Gentleman of Leisure - Evan Stevens, Joe Vallone, Amos Whiting.