Mount Rainier 2005 Revised Permit Policy

Commercial Use Authorizations for Single Trip Guides - 6 to 18 CUAs

Mount Rainier is widely recognized as one of the best places in North America to train for longer and more difficult climbs in Alaska and abroad. The purpose of Single Trip Guide CUAs would be to enable uniquely qualified national and international climbing guides to bring their clients to Mount Rainier for a one-time trip.

The introduction of Single Trip Guiding opportunities is a new concept at Mount Rainier National Park. For this reason, the program is considered to be experimental and will be subject to a phase-in period. Adjustments may also be made as the program is implemented. The park reserves the right to review and modify the components of this program and to terminate the program if conditions warrant.

Certification Requirements

Mount Rainier National Park will require one of the following certifications for guides applying for Single Trip Guide Commercial Use Authorizations (CUAs) or Incidental Business Permits (IBPs):

American Mountain Guiding Association (AMGA) Alpine Guide Certification;
AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification;
IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Association) a.k.a. the
UIAGM (Union Internationale des Associations de Guide de Montagne) Guide Certification (full guide); or
Equivalent, documented training and experience as determined by the park.

The park has reviewed the technical guiding requirements for these certifications and has deemed the requirements for each level of certification adequate for the hazardous terrain encountered on Mount Rainier. This includes the ability to move safely with clients on glaciated, heavily crevassed terrain, and to lead clients through areas of steep snow, ice and rock steps of low fifth class difficulty.

The park considered the acceptance of these organizations within the guiding community before making this determination. The following provides a brief overview of each organization:

The AMGA is currently operating in its 25th year. While not the sole association of mountain guides in the U.S., they enjoy the largest membership and are the only American association with membership in the IFMGA.
AMGA certification requirements are currently recognized for guides at two national parks (Rocky Mountain National Park and Joshua Tree National Park) and will soon be recognized at another (New River Gorge National River). 27
The IFMGA has been the most well respected international association of mountain guides since its inception in 1966. Full member organizations of the IFMGA now exist in Austria, Canada, France, Germany, Great Britain, Italy, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, Peru, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Poland, and the USA. Only IFMGA certified guides from full member organizations will be allowed to participate in this program.

First aid requirements are incorporated into the suggested guide certification requirements. All AMGA certified guides are required to have current Wilderness First Responder certification and all IFMGA member organizations require “…an acceptable level of first aid training…” (from IFMGA certification guidelines) for their guides before IFMGA certification status is obtained. Copies of current emergency medical certifications will need to be presented to the park as part of the single trip guide application evaluation process.

Finally, the park has considered the need for Leave No Trace (LNT) training and has reached the following conclusions:

The AMGA builds LNT material into all levels of their courses and examinations. Certified Alpine Guides and Certified Ski Mountaineering Guides will necessarily have had significant exposure to LNT principles through their coursework and will likely also have had significant field experience incorporating LNT practices. AMGA guides will be provided with information on the specifics of Mount Rainier National Park’s policies as part of the application process, but the guide can be expected to possess a satisfactory familiarity with LNT principles.
A small number of IFMGA guides are likely to be unfamiliar with certain LNT principles. Rather than use what is largely a cultural difference as a limiting criteria for these guides,the appropriate comprehensive information will be shared with IFMGA guides (a pamphlet from the LNT organization and additional material covering the specifics of Mount Rainier National Park policies) along with a clear warning of the consequences of ignoring park rules and policies.

Certification Requirement Clarifications

The lead guide for all single trip CUA activity at the park must have the required certification. Assistant guides accompanying the lead guide are not required to be certified.
Company accreditation and guide certification are different. The single trip guide CUAs or IBPs will only be issued to certified guides as defined in this plan. Accredited guide services will only be eligible to participate in this program if the lead guide on the expedition/trip is certified (as defined in this plan).
The park may amend the qualifications requirement at a future date as circumstances warrant.
Previous guiding experience on Mount Rainier will not be a requirement for obtaining a single trip guide permit.

Consideration was given to reviewing all individual climbing resumes from single trip guide applicants. However, this laborious task would significantly increase the administrative cost for this program. For this reason, the park has elected to primarily utilize existing, nationally and internationally recognized certification programs to screen permit applicants. Because this program is experimental in nature, this decision will be reviewed and may possibly be amended in the future.

Conditions Applicable to Single Trip Guide CUAs

18 Single Trip Guide CUAs (phased-in over 3 years) could be granted. Each may guide:

1 group per permit (maximum of 1 permit per entity per year);
5 clients and guides per party (maximum);
5 nights per trip (maximum);
4 clients per guide (maximum);
Trips on any route outside the Commercial Free Zone (including guiding the Muir, Emmons and Kautz Routes); and
Trips Sunday through Thursday (no Friday or Saturday night stays).

Single Trip Guides must have:

American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA), IFMGA certification or equivalent (as determined by the park);
Wilderness First Responder or equivalent certification; and
Leave No Trace certification or knowledge.

Single Trip Guides cannot be employed by a concessioner at the time of their trip and may not be Mount Rainier National Park guided mountaineering concessioners.