This certification is meant for the experienced backcountry skier or ski mountaineering guide looking to further hone her/his skills in off-trail and glacial terrain. It is designed for guiding either ski tours or ski ascents/descents, on alpine touring or free-heel equipment. Topics covered include: track setting, navigation, efficient 3rd and 4th class travel, short-rope and short pitch techniques, rescues skills, and client care.
Students are expected to arrive with a minimum of four years of recreational backcountry skiing background and an acquired knowledge of knots, belaying, rappelling, anchors, and basic alpine climbing systems. It is assumed that the students can ascend and descend 4500 vertical feet per day. It is expected that student’s are physically, mentally, and emotionally prepared for a week of outdoor activity.
To get your Ski Mountaineering Guide Certification, you must complete:
The Ski Guide Course (SGC) is designed for skiers who wish to learn the skills and techniques used while guiding multi-day ski tours in a non-glaciated, yet possible high-mountain backcountry setting. It covers management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical ascents and descents, and management of multiple clients and small team rescues. Emphasis is placed on effectively managing risks and maximizing client rewards. Glacier travel, crevasse hazards and sustained technical mountaineering challenges are generally not covered in this course.
The SGC includes indoors and outdoors classroom time, practice sessions, and skiing on a variety of terrain and snow conditions. Recreational backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering skills and judgment are screened as part of the daily activities. The course is designed to introduce some of the recommended methods common to ski mountaineering guiding through sessions and practical application.
The Ski Mountaineering Guide Course & Aspirant Exam is designed for skilled skiers and climbers who wish to learn the skills and techniques used while guiding on complex glaciated terrain. This course covers management of 3rd, 4th and possibly 5th class terrain, technical descents, management of multiple clients, and small team rescues. It emphasizes effective risk management while maximizing client rewards.
The SMGC is a course and includes instruction, coaching, debriefing, and assessment. The assessment phase in known as the Aspirant Exam. The focus of the course is on principle-based learning, giving you the strategies for problem solving through coaching and practical application in simulated guide/client scenarios. Guiding and instructional skills will be assessed during the Aspirant Exam portion(s) of the course. A final assessment will be based on your overall performance.
The SMGC is a course and includes instruction, coaching, debriefing, and assessment. The assessment phase in known as the Aspirant Exam.
The Aspirant Exam is intended to help determine whether or not your personal skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding in ski mountaineering terrain. In addition, it serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision. Finally, the essential skills and abilities of the aspirant guide must be comparable to those of a full guide.
The AMGA would like to thank Marmot for sponsoring the Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam. Not only does Marmot’s financial support keep tuition costs low, but the company also provides graduates with the technical clothing they need.
The goals of the 8-day Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam (SMGE) are to assess and certify ski mountaineering guides at the AMGA and IFMGA international standards and to further the general education of the students.
During the exam students are expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners. The students serve as guides to the examiners and to the other participants on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. While acting as the guide, students are responsible for route planning, client orientation, risk management and normal guiding practices. Route assignments and client profiles are usually given the night before. Students are responsible for obtaining information about the assigned route as well as alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.
The exam is conducted on routes chosen by the examiners. Ski mountaineering terrain includes glaciated alpine environments where guides may need to employ extensive short roping techniques, use of the ice axe and crampons, as well as travel on heavily crevassed glaciers. Multi-pitch ice or rock climbing is generally not included in the defined terrain except when necessary to achieve an objective.
Course Area(s) & Length: