On April 20, Silas Rossi and Peter Doucette climbed Twisted Stair (V WI6 R/X M6+, 2,300′), a new route on Mt. Johnson (8,460′). This article was originally published in Issue #1 of the GUIDE Bulletin, August 2013.
Of the route, Rossi says: “On a route where you’re doing a first ascent like that, it’s always in the back of your mind, ‘is the next pitch going to go?’ The crux pitch ended up being this really thin ice smear. It was just above where we bivied for the night. We went to bed thinking we’d just go down in the morning. We thought it was desperate. The next morning we got up, and Peter ended up leading that pitch and did a really great job. After we were through that, we had this realization that we actually might complete this route. That was pretty pivotal.”
For Rossi, the trip was just a continuation of his focus on doing first ascents on bigger peaks. Rossi and Doucette climbed two new routes in the Ruth in April 2012.
“The last couple years I went through the IFMGA process, and so my focus was on smaller objectives,” Rossi says. “Now it’s really cool to have time to myself to fully immerse in climbing. I love that singular focus; it is often really intense. Either you’re really climbing and focusing for a long period of time, or you’re fully in camp resting. I like being able to put all my energy in one place. The new routes we are trying to do are on terrain that demands that much focus to be successful.”
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