Possible Yosemite Guiding Opportunities | COMMENT TODAY!
Overview
The comment period on the Yosemite Wilderness plan ends this Friday! Based on current regulations, this is the only opportunity in the next twenty-plus years for increasing guided access in the park. While options for increased guiding have not yet been released to the public, our comments now can help influence the options that the park’s planning process generates. This is the mid-point of this planning process and we will have one additional opportunity for input, likely toward the end of this year, when the options for guiding have been published.
The AMGA is committed to working with land managers to improve guided opportunities for the general public on federally and locally managed lands. The AMGA needs the help of all members to write Yosemite National Park in support of these new access opportunities, which will likely focus on low ratio, multi-pitch guiding.
When making comments please be respectful and positive – the park is under no obligation to provide additional guiding opportunities – we need to convince them it is in the best interest of the park and visitors. Included below are talking point on this. If possible use your own words and you will need to fit this into the park’s comment format, which at this point focuses heavily on stock use in the Wilderness. Consider including your training or certification level with your comments.
You can submit comments or visit the Park Service’s Yosemite Wilderness Plan overview.
- The reasons for increased guided access
The AMGA believes opening up access to guided climbing in Yosemite is an important step to better serve park visitors.
- By providing choices to the public the park can improve the visitor experience and promote responsible recreation
- Modern professional guides provide instruction to their clients from beginners to experienced climbers including the training of future generations of guides
- Properly trained guides are stewards of public land and should be viewed as a resource by park staff for teaching park values and as potential partners during rescues
In addition, the AMGA believes climbing is not at capacity in Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne.
- The avenue for increased access
The AMGA believes a flexible Commercial Use Authorization (“CUA”) program is the best avenue for the park to pursue a sustainable increase in access for guided climbing. Any potential CUA program should include a number of key points.
- A reasonable application process based on standard criteria including appropriate training and certification*
- Flexibility in allowing guides to make use of the available capacity without imposing any limits on the days utilized by individual guides
- CUA dates should be flexible or exchangeable so guides are not locked into specific dates that may affect risk to their clients
*AMGA Rock Guide certification is the only national certification program that examines guides up to the 5.10+ A2 Grade V standard. AMGA believes that Yosemite offers unique climbing opportunities and that this highest level of certification will provide the best possible visitor experience on multi-pitch routes in this park.
- Social impacts of expanding guided access
The AMGA is aware of the popularity of certain routes in the Park and respectfully asks to work with the Park to develop strategies to appropriately manage guided use.
- Low Ratio guiding is the best way to encourage fluid movement of guided parties on busier routes
- Guides working together on scheduling would ensure diversity of use within the park
- If limits must be imposed a blanket closure of routes should be avoided. While Yosemite holds a diversity of climbing resources, closure of certain routes would have a negative impact on visitors by severely limiting opportunities for beginner and intermediate level climbers.
- In the case of limits, strategies such as seasonal or weekend versus weekday restrictions could be workable solutions for the park, guides, and the public
Thank you for your consideration and thoughtful approach to expanding guided opportunities on public lands.
Submit your comments here and remember that the comment period ends this Friday!
Photo courtesy of Jane Anderson
