Millet Scholarship Winner: Jes Meiris

Posted on March 2, 2015 by AMGA

Photos & text by Jes Meiris, Assistant Rock Guide & Millet Scholarship Recipient

My deepest thanks to Millet for making my Advanced Rock Guide Course (ARGC) a possibility! Throughout the ten-day course, I had the opportunity to meet eight other aspiring AMGA guides and three instructors, all of whom contributed their own background into our course. It was clear that each participant and instructor brought their own enriching experiences to the table, which created a colorful foundation from which to build on our skills.

For me, the course served as a confidence builder and an opportunity to check in with where my skills are in comparison with the rock guide standard. To be honest, I expected to be more challenged–physically, mentally, and technically–but instead found that my current skill set and mode of operation is current with the AMGA standard. I felt that the course was very well designed to accommodate the wide range of skills of the students, many of which have strong alpine climbing backgrounds and are less strong in the rock discipline. Our instructors created a productive atmosphere of learning while maintaining a laid-back attitude which took the pressure off, particularly in the exam component of the course.

Craig Muderlak setting up a 3:1 hauling system during rescue drill practice.

One highlight for me was our ascent of Frigid Air Buttress, an eight pitch route in Icebox Canyon. Each of the three students took a component of the day, whether it be the approach, part of the climbing, or the descent. My lead block was on the first few pitches, and there were a couple of guiding challenges with communication and keeping visual on the ‘clients’ while they were climbing. I enjoyed these challenges, and felt that I gained valuable experience and feedback. We were behind a party of two from Minnesota, and they were climbing at the speed of molasses, so our group had plenty of time to sit on the enormous belay ledges, tell bad jokes, and take goofy pictures. We did more laughing than climbing for sure! When it came time to descend, our instructor, Rob, recommended that we go ‘out of role’ for the first part of our descent and take an alternate route down that would let us get ahead of the Minnesotans. So, we scrambled and rappelled quickly to where our descent met up with the standard descent, and were able to get down nearly two hours earlier than if we’d stayed behind the other party. I was thankful for Rob’s flexibility and excellent judgment on that day. And what an awesome climb to boot.

Brian Hendricks and Jack Cody pausing for a smile during our knot pass exam.

Bryan Hendrick and Jack Cody pausing for a smile during our knot pass exam.

It was also clear that everyone in the course came with an open mind for learning. We were able to learn from each other, share ideas, and support one another in our objectives. A few of us rented a house nearby for the duration of the course, and that created an environment that opened up possibilities for success within the group. Our instructors were accommodating and fun to be around, and had some great stories of their own to share.

I am most grateful for this experience, and look forward to completing my certification in Fall 2014. Thank you, Millet.

: Steve Levin acting waaaay too animated to be an injured client during the rescue drill. Dylan Taylor and Brenton Reagan at the anchor.

: Jerome Smart building a chest harness for Craig Muderlak during self rescue practice.

: Local fauna.

: Bryan Hendrick lovin’ the offwidth on Community Pillar

: The Colorado River, near Hoover Dam.

: Rainbow Mountain at sunset.

: Mount Wilson with cactus blooms at sunset.

: Jerome Smart and Tom Hargis at a belay on Beulah’s Book. Note the bird’s nest on the right side!

: A pre-rigged rappel, one of the common ways of rappelling with clients. The guide can set up and safety check the system before descending to the next anchor, and then provide a fireman’s backup from there.

: What happens to your rope when you pull it down from a rappel in Red Rocks. Aargh!

: Craig Muderlak setting up a 3:1 hauling system during rescue drill practice.

: Steve Levin smoothly ascending The Fox (5.10d), our movement exam route.

: Shortroping practice on Cactus Flower Tower.

: April Mayhew on Frigid Air Buttress.

: Bryan Hendrick and Jack Cody pausing for a smile during our knot pass exam.

: Jerome Smart having too much fun during rescue drill practice. His system is a good representation of ‘baseline’, where he’s escaped the belay and the client’s rope is on a Munter-Mule tied off directly to the anchor. From here, he can haul, rappel down to, or lower the client. The blue cord, not serving a purpose in this picture, is what he used to transfer the load to and from the anchor.