AMGA Rock Instructor

This is the entry-level course for the Rock Guide and Alpine Guide programs and the Rock Instructor Certification. The Rock Guide Course (RGC) was designed for aspiring guides who have a strong rock climbing background and for instructors who are interested in improving their skills and increasing knowledge. The RGC trains aspiring guides on routes up to Grade III and 5.9 while emphasizing risk management and client rewards. You are expected to arrive with a strong recreational climbing background with an acquired knowledge of knots, belaying, anchors, protection strategies, and climbing systems. It is assumed that you can lead the climbs listed on the submitted resume and that you are physically, mentally, and emotionally prepared for a week of outdoor activity.

Prerequisites:

• Current AMGA member
• Completion of a CPR and WFR Course (minimum 80 hours)
• Five years personal rock climbing experience
• Confidence leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.9, at the time of the course
• Familiar with basic knots, including: figure 8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule hitch, prusik, flat overhand, double fisherman's and klemheist
• Familiar with multiple types of mechanical and non-mechanical belay devices
• Familiar with a variety of rappel devices on multi-pitch rappels
• Familiar with LNT Practices
• You have led 10 traditional climbs rated 5.10a or harder on various rock types (single or multi-pitch)
• You have led or shared lead on 50 multi-pitch routes (10 of which are Grade III or longer)

Format:

The RGC includes indoor and outdoor classroom time, practice sessions, and climbing on a variety of rock routes. Recreational climbing skills and judgment are screened as part of the daily activities. The course is designed to introduce some of the recommended methods common to rock guiding through sessions and practical application.

The goals of the six-day Rock Instructor Exam (RIE) are to assess and certify rock-climbing instructors who demonstrate a high level of expertise consistent with the standards introduced in the 10-day Rock Guide Course and to further the general education of the students.

Prerequisites:

• Current AMGA member
• Completion of a CPR and WFR Course (minimum 80 hours)
• Successful completion of the Rock Guide Course
• Familiar with LNT practices
• Confidence leading traditional and sport routes up to 5.10a/A0, at the time of the exam
• Since completing the Rock Guide Course, you have led 10 traditional rock climbs rated 5.10a or harder on various rock types (single or multi-pitch)
• Since completing the RGC, you have led or shared lead on at least 10 routes grade III or harder.
• FOR 2016, since completing the the Rock Guide Course, you have guided 25 days in diverse Rock Instructor terrain (10 of these days can be mock guided)

Format:

During the exam you are expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the examiners. You serve as guides to the examiners and to the other participants on routes chosen for their complex guiding challenges. While acting as the guide, you are responsible for route planning, client orientation, risk management, and normal guiding practices. Route assignments and client profiles are usually given the night before. You are responsible for obtaining information about the assigned route as well as alternative routes if the original objective proves infeasible.

Expectations:

During the RIE you will be examined on climbs through Grade III and up to 5.10a/A0. While these routes are multi-pitch, they are relatively straightforward and may not involve complex approaches and/or descents. Time factors, while important, are not as pressing on these routes. A strong emphasis is placed on risk management while maximizing client rewards.

Assessment Areas:

• Screening of movement skills in rock terrain;
• Technical skills assessment including the 45-minute rock rescue drill and the five-minute knot-pass drill;
• Guided days assessment, which includes evaluation in the following nine areas: risk management, client care, technical systems, application, terrain assessment, movement skills, mountain sense, professionalism and instructional technique.